X 



THE STAG 




C. MAC/SHERIDAN 



Class 
Book 




XGoe 



£a 



Copyright^ . 



CQ2SUGHT OEFOSm 



, -' 









The Stag Cook Booh 

C. MAC SHERIDAN 



THE STAG COOK BOOK 



WRITTEN FOR MEN BT MEN 



COLLECTED AND EDITED 
by 

C. MAC SHERIDAN 



With an Introduction by 
ROBERT H. DAVIS 




NEW YORK 
GEORGE H. DORAN COMPANY 






COPYRIGHT, 1922, 
BY GEORGE H. DORAN COMPANY 



THE STAG COOK BOOK. II 



PRINTED IN THE UNITED STATES OF AMERICA 



OCT 25 '22 

C1AG83878 '{' . 



Wi 






Dedicated To — 

THAT GREAT HOST 
OF BACHELORS AND BENEDICTS ALIKE 

who have at one time or another 
tried to "cook something" ; and 
who, in the attempt, have weak- 
ened under a fire of feminine 
Taillery and sarcasm, only to 
spoil what, under more favora- 
ble circumstances, would have 
proved a chef-d'oeuvre. 



"They may live without houses and live without 
books" 

So the saying has gone through the ages, 
"But a civilized man cannot live without cooks — " 

It's a libel, as proved by these pages/ 
For when left by himself in a small kitchenette, 

With a saucepan, a spoon and a kettle, 
A man can make things that you'll never forget — 

That will put any cook on her mettle. 

Where camp fires glow through the still of the 
night, 

Where grills are electric and shiny, 
Where kitchens are huge, done in tiling of white, 

Where stoves are exceedingly tiny, 
Where people are hungry — no matter the place — 

A man can produce in a minute 
A dish to bring smiles to each skeptical face, 

With art — and real food value — in it! 

At range and at oven, at {whisper it!) still, 

A man is undoubtedly master; 
His cooking is done with an air and a skill, 

He's sure as a woman — and faster! 
He may break the dishes and clutter the floor, 

And if he is praised — he deserves it — 
He may flaunt his prowess until he's a bore. . . . 

But, Boy, what he serves — when he serves it! 



[vir 



INTRODUCTION 
By Robert H. Davis 

Cooking is a gift, not an art. Eating is an art, not 
a gift. In combination a grace is developed. No great 
culinary triumph was ever perfected by accident. 

Charles Lamb's essay on roast pig was responsible 
for a tidal wave of burnt pork that swept over England 
in the nineteenth century. Mr. Lamb led a hungry em- 
pire to the belief that only through an act of incendiarism 
could a suckling porker be converted into a delicacy ; 
whereas, as a matter of fact, the perfection of roast pork, 
golden-brown and unseared by fire, were possible only in 
the oven. 

Lucullus, the good Roman gourmet, had his meals 

cooked in a mint. He required that his masterpieces be 

served on gold and silver and crystal, and spread on a 

table of lapis lazuli. The sauces compiled for him were 

worth more than the food upon which they were poured. 

He was the high priest of extravagance and luxury. A 

single meal stood him a fortune. He had more regard 

for the cost than for the cooking. It is said that his 

death was hastened by dyspepsia. 

* * * * 

In the early seventies a French nobleman, living in the 
neighborhood of Barbizon, was found seated at the table 
with his face in a plate of soup. Because of the fact that 
a butcher knife had been inserted via the back between 
his fourth and fifth rib on the left side, he was quite 

[ix] 



INTRODUCTION 



dead. Clues led nowhere. It became one of the mys- 
teries. 

Long afterward an old man tottered into the office of 
the Prefect and announced that he wished to make a 
confession. 

"Proceed," said the official. 

" 'Twas I," responded the ancient, "who delivered the 
death stroke to the Duke de la thirty-five years ago." 

"What inspired you to make this confession?" 

"Pride." 

"I do not comprehend. The details, if you please." 

"By profession I was a chef," said the self-accused. 
"The Duke, at a fabulous price, enticed me into his serv- 
ice. His first request was that I make for him a per- 
fect consomme. Voila! For three days I prepared this 
perfection. With my own hand I placed before him 
the soup tureen. With my own hand I ladled it out. 
He inhaled its divine essence; and then, Your Honor, 
he reached for the salt. Mon Dieuf I destroy him!" 

The Prefect embraced the artist and took him out to 

lunch. Thus art was vindicated and the incident closed. 

In the chemistry of cooking, "enough is too much." 
* * * * 

The immortals who have contributed recipes to this 
volume were born with a silver spoon not in their mouths, 
but in their hands. The cap and apron, not the cap and 
bells, is the garb in which they perform. Secrets handed 
down through generations are thrown with a wanton 
hand on the pages that comprise this volume. Sauces 
from the south, chowders from New England, barbecued 

w 



INTRODUCTION 



masterpieces from the west, grilled classics from field and 
stream, ragouts, stews, desserts, dressings are hung within 
reach of all, like garlic clusters from the rafters of oppor- 
tunity. Reach up and help yourself. 

Be not disturbed by occasional jocund phrases in this 
symposium. Behind them is probably concealed a savory 
or a flavor. A long paragraph may conclude with full 
particulars concerning the achitecture of a gastronomic 
dream. Turn the pages slowly lest you be overwhelmed 
by the richness of the menu. 

7ft" $fc 7J? ^p 

The late King Edward, upon bidding the later Carlos 
of Portugal God-speed back to his native shores, inquired : 
"By what were you most impressed during your visit 
to the British Isles?" 

"Roast beef," said Carlos, expanding in ecstasy. 

"And what else?" inquired Edward. 

"Well," said Carlos, "the boiled beef wasn't so damned 

bad." 

* * * * 

It is one thing to cook food, and another to consume 
it. This inspired tome is the product of cooks who are not 
afraid to take their own medicine. The names of many 
of the dishes catalogued herein lies on the tongues of the 
mob, but the delicacies themselves do not. This book 
brings within the reach of all opportunities that up to 
now have been denied them. Given a first class stove, 
a few simple ingredients and a copy of this book, hunger 
can be abolished wherever English is read. 



[xi] 



INTRODUCTION 



Rossini, the musician, also a chef, after writing the 
score of The Barber of Seville, was informed by the direc- 
tor that a prelude was required immediately. Rossini re- 
paired to his kitchen, cooked himself a perfect dinner, 
consumed it alone, and went to bed where in a reclining 
position with score sheets all about him, he wrote a bril- 
liant introduction to his brilliant opera. Suddenly a gust 
of wind entered unbidden at the window and scattered 
the precious sheets about the room. Several disappeared 
through the lattice. Rossini, heavy with the consequences 
of his culinary genius, re-wrote a fresher and better pre- 
lude, tucked it under his corpulent person and rolled 
over for a final nap, after which he hastened to the opera 
house with his masterpiece. His best work was done on 
a full stomach. 

$fc "5T* •!*■ $& 

Brillat-Savarin, author of "Gastronomy as a Fine Art," 
rather whimsically names "Gasteria" the tenth and fair- 
est of the Muses. The writers of this book name her as 
the first. R. H. D, 



[xii] 



CONTENTS 



PART ONE: CONTRIBUTORS 

PAGE 

I Meredith Nicholson . . 31 

WABASH VALLEY STEAK 

II Rex Beach .... 34 

ONION CLAM CHOWDER 

III Hudson Maxim . . . 35 

SPAGHETTI 

IV Warren G. Harding . . 36 

WAFFLES 

V Ellis Parker Butler . . 31 

BOUILLABAISSE JOE TILDEN 

VI Jules J. Jusserand . . . 38 

RADISH SALAD 

VII Bruce Barton .... 39 

RICE PUDDING 

VIII Richard Bennett ... 40 

LIEDERKRANZ A LA HOOSIER 

IX Walt Louderback . . . 41 

CORN CHOWDER 

X Captain Robert A. Bartlett y 

U.S.A 42 

COD FISH 

XI George F. Worts ... 43 

SWEET POTATO PONE 

[xiii] 



CONTENTS 







PAGE 


XII 


Gelett Burgess 

PANDOWDY 


45 


XIII 


William Allen White . 

VEGETABLE SALAD 


46 


XIV 


Irvin S. Cobb .... 

HOG JOWL AND TURNIP 
GREENS (PADUCAH STYLE ) 


48 


XV 


Richard Walton Tully . 
hawaiian croquettes a la 
"the bird of paradise" 


49 


XVI 


William Johnston . 
oysters pecheur 


51 


XVII 


Dr. Charles M. Sheldon 
LIKES bread and milk 


52 


XVIII 


James Montgomery Flagg 

"JAMES MONTGOMERY SUDs" 


53 


XIX 


Roy L. McCardell . 
"eggs mushroomette" 


54 


XX 


Judge Ben B. hinds ey . 
bran muffins 


56 


XXI 


Otis Skinner .... 

ARTICHOKES, MISTER ANTONIO 


51 


XXII 


Dan Beard .... 

A BURGOO 


58 


XXIII 


De Wolf Hopper . 

RASPBERRY SHORTCAKE 


60 


XXIV 


Chick Evans .... 


61 



TOMATO SOUP 



[xiv] 



CONTENTS 



PAGE 

XXV Joshua A. Hatfield . . 63 

EGGPLANT SAUTE A l'aLEXAN- 
DER 

POTATO STICKS ALEXANDER 

COLD SAUCE ALEXANDER 

SUPREME OF CHICKEN A l' AL- 
EXANDER 

GARNITURE 

FONDU AU FROMAGE A l'aLEX- 
ANDER 

POACHED EGGS EN CROUSTADE 

A l'alexander 

ROMAINE SALAD A l'aLEX- 
ANDER 



ANDER 
STRAWBERRY TARTLETS ALEX- 
ANDER 
BAKED OYSTERS ALEXANDER 
EMINCE OF CHICKEN A l'aLEX- 
ANDER 

XXVI Stewart Edward White . . 69 

MULLIGAN 

XXVII Oliver Herford ... 70 

FRIED ELDERBERRY BLOSSOMS 

XXVIII Reed Smoot . . . . 71 

PEACH COBBLER 

XXIX Ray Long .... 72 

SHAD ROE 
DESSERT 



[XV] 



CONTENTS 



XXX 


Kenneth C. Beaton . 

LOBSTER 


PAGE 

73 


XXXI 


John Harvey Kellogg, M. D. 

MACARONI WITH CHEESE 
SAVORY POTATOES 


IS 


XXXII 


Clare Briggs .... 

WAFFLES 


11 


XXXIII 


Edward W. Bok 

ASPARAGUS 


78 


XXXIV 


Charles Hanson Towne . 

CORN PUDDING 


80 


XXXV 


Jerome D. Kern 

TERRAPIN 


81 


XXXVI 


Daniel Willard 

COTTAGE PUDDING 
STRAWBERRY SAUCE 


82 


XXXVII 


Houdini 

SCALLOPED MUSHROOMS AND 

DEVILED EGGS 
THE MUSHROOM DISH 
THE EGGS 


83 


XXXVIII 


Charles P. Steinmetz 

MEAT LOAF 


84 


XXXIX 


Charlie Chaplin 

STEAK AND KIDNEY PIE 


86 


XL 


Dr. Frank Crane 

ROUND STEAK 


87 


XLI 


Robert H. Davis . 


89 



CREAM SAUCE 
CESTERSHIRE 



LA WOR- 



[xvi] 



CONTENTS 



PAGE 

XLII John A.Dix . . . . 90 

FRIED TROUT 

XLIII Guy Bates Post . .91 

LAMB CURRY A LA "OMAR, 
THE TENTMAKER" 

XLIV Dr. Don Rafael H. Elizalde 93 

SANCOCHO 
YAPINGACHO 

XLV Bide Dudley .... 95 

TOMATO SOP 

XLVI William Hale Thompson . 96 

ROAST BEEF 

XLVII Booth Tarkington . . .97 

CORN FLAKES 

XLVIII T. A. D organ . ... 98 

CHILI CON CARNE 

XLIX William de Leftwich Dodge 99 

RAGOUT DE MOUTON 

L Montague Glass . . . 100 

BOUILLABAISSE 

LI John Philip Sousa . . .103 

PELOTAS A LA PORTUGUESE 
SPAGHETTI 

LII Will Hays . . . .105 

CHICKEN PILAU 

LIII Frank Ward O'Malley . .106 

RUM-TUM-TIDDY 

LIV Charles Evans Hughes . . 10& 

CORN BREAD 

[xvii] 



CONTENTS 



LV 



LVI 



LVII 



LVIII 

LIX 
LX 

[xviii] 



Walter Prichard Eaton . . 109 

MINCE PIE 
THE FILLING 

W. T. Benda . . . .113 

POLISH SPECIALTIES 
BARSHCK WITH USHKA 
USHKA 
BURACHKI 

Captain Edward A. Salisbury 118 

SAUCE FOR SPAGHETTI 

EGGS A LA SALISBURY 

FISH A LA COMMODORE 

TO COOK TROUT 

VENISON STEAK 

GOOSE 

A MAYONNAISE AND A SALAD 

DRESSING 
DUCKS AND LARGE FOWL 
TEAL, PARTRIDGE AND SMALL 

FOWL 
BEANS 

ITALIAN RICE 
STEAK SAUCE 

Thomas H. Ince . . . 126 

CHICKEN HALIBUT 
ONION SOUP AU GRATIN 
RICE A LA MANHATTAN 

George Ade .... 128 

"SCOLLOPED" OYSTERS 

Lyman Abbott . . . 130 

DEEP APPLE PIE 



CONTENTS 



LXI Terry Ramsay e . . . 131 

LETTUCE (A LA RED CREEK) 

LXII R. L. (Rube) Goldberg . 133 

HASH 

LXIII Channing Pollock . . .134 

CORN BREAD 

LXIV Hussein Kahn Alai . . . 135 

CHIRIN POLOW 

LXV William /. Bryan . . .138 

FRENCH-FRIED ONIONS 

LXVI Will Irwin . . .139 

HAM AND EGGS 

LXVII Douglas Fairbanks . . .140 

BREAD TART 

LXVIII Julian Street .... 141 

SOLE A LA MARGUERY AND 

DUCK WITH ORANGES 
SOLE A LA MARGUERY 
DUCK BIGARADE 

LXIX S. S. McClure . . .143 

OMELETTE AND PIE 

LXX Basil King^ .145 

LOBSTER A LA KING 

LXXI John A. Moroso . .146 

SP AGH ETTI-FOR-TH E-GAN G 

LXXII F. X. Leyendecker . .148 

VEAU SAUTE MARENGO 
VOL AU VENT FINANCIERE 

[xix] 



CONTENTS 



PAGE 

LXXIII Eddie Cantor . . . .150 

BOILED BEEF AND HORSERADISH 

SAUCE 

LXXIV Frazier Hunt . . . .151 

STUFFED CELERY 

LXXV Wm. Slavins McNutt . .152 

ORANGE COMPOTE 

LXXVI Stephen Vincent Benet . .154- 

ZITELLl's MACARONI STEW 

LXXVII James R. Quirk . . .155 

TOMATO WIGGLE 

LXXVIII Charles W. Eliot . . .156 

A FAVORITE- MENU 

LXXIX H. S. Cumming . . .158 

VIRGINIA EGG BREAD 

LXXX Joseph S ant ley . . .159 

COCOA CREAM CAKE 

LXXXI A. Hamilton Gibbs . .160 

SQUAB EN CASSEROLE 

LXXXII Richard Barthelmess . . 161 

SPICED GRAPES 

LXXXI 1 1 Don Juan R. y Gayangos . 162 

EGG PLANT AU GRATIN 

LXXXIV Samuel G. Blythe . . .163 

TRIPE A LA MODE DE CAEN A 
LA ROY CARRUTHERS 

LXXXV Charles H.Taylor . . .165 



CLAM CHOWDER 
[XX] 



CONTENTS 




XCI 
XCII 

XCIII 

XCIV 

XCV 

XCVI 

XCVII 

XCVIII 



PAGE 

Cyrus H. K. Curtis . . 167 

BAKED BEANS 

Frederic Arnold Kummer . 169 

SPAGHETTI DIABOLIQUE 

Albert D. Lasker . .170 

CHICKEN PAPRIKA 

Henry Van Dyke . . . 171 

FISH CHOWDER 

Macklyn Ar buckle . .172 
southern gumbo a la 
"county chairman" 

John Taintor Foote . .174 

MORELS SAUTE 

Maurice Francis Egan . . 176 

A DIPLOMATIST'S RECEIPT 
FOR WELSH RABBIT 

Livingston Far rand . . 178 

SAUSAGE AND GRIDDLE CAKES 

F. Ziegfeld, Jr. . .179 

LITTLE CHICKEN TARTS 

Harold Lloyd . . . 181 

LEMON LAYER CAKE 

Luther Burbank . . . 183 

TURKEY A LA BURBANK 

Raymond McKee . . . 185 

TO COOK RABBITS 

Will Deming . . .187 

VIRGINIA HAM 
LEMON PIE 
A DRESSING 

[xxi] 



CONTENTS 



XCIX 


Charles W. Chessar 

TIPS ON STEAKS 


PAGE 

189 


c 


Arthur T. Vance . 

SALADE A LA TURC 
PANDORA FRENCH DRESSING 
WELSH RABBIT A LA MORGAN 
ROBERTSON 


191 


CI 


Baron de Cartier . 

WATERZOIE DE VOLAILLE 


195 


CII 


Dean Cornwell 

SP AGH ETTI-M Y-STYLE 


197 



PART TWO: RECIPES 

Breads — Muffins — Waffles — Etc. 

bran muffins 56 

BREAD AND MILK 52 

CORN BREAD 108, 134 

CORNFLAKES 97 

GRIDDLE CAKES 178 

SWEET POTATO PONE 43 

VIRGINIA EGG BREAD 158 

WAFFLES 36, 77 

Egg Dishes 

DEVILED EGGS 83 

EGGS A LA SALISBURY 119 

eggs "mushroomette" .... 54 

EGGS USED WITH ASPARAGUS . . . 79 

[xxii] 



CONTENTS 



HAM AND EGGS 139 

OMELETTE 143 

POACHED EGGS EN CROUSTADE A 

l'alexander 65 

Soups — Mulligans — Bouillabaisse 

barshck 113 

barshck with ushka . . . . 113 

bean soup 124 

BURGOO, A 58 

BOUILLABAISSE JOE TILDEN . . . 37 

BOUILLABAISSE 100 

CORN CHOWDER 41 

CLAM CHOWDER 165 

FISH CHOWDER 171 

MULLIGAN 69 

ONION CLAM CHOWDER . . . . 34 
ONION SOUP AU GRATIN . . . .126 

SANCOCHO 93 

TOMATO SOUP 61 

WATERZOIE DE VOLAILLE . . . . 195 



Fish — Oysters — Lobster — Roe — Etc. 

baked oysters alexander . . . 67 
chicken halibut 126 

COD FISH 42 

COLD SAUCE ALEXANDER (FOR COLD 

SALMON) 64 

FISH A LA COMMADORE . . . . 119 

FRIED TROUT . .. . . . 90 

HAWAIIAN CROQUETTES A LA BIRD OF 

PARADISE 49 

fxxiiil 



CONTENTS 



PAGE 

LOBSTER A LA KING 145 


LOBSTER (K C b) 






73 


OYSTERS PECHEUR 






51 


"scolloped" OYSTERS 






128 


SHAD ROE .... 






72 


SOLE A LA MARGUERY . 






141 


STEAMED CLAMS . 






97 


TROUT, TO COOK . 






120 



Fowl (Domestic and Wild) 



chicken paprika 

chicken pilau 

chirin polow (persian) .... 

duck bigarade 

ducks and large fowl .... 

EMINCE OF CHICKEN A l'aLEXANDER 
GOOSE, THE BEST WAY TO COOK . 
LITTLE CHICKEN TARTS .... 
SOUTHERN GUMBO A LA "COUNTY CHAIR- 
MAN" 

SQUAB EN CASSEROLE 

SUPREME OF CHICKEN A l'aLEXANDER 
SUPREME OF CHICKEN A l'aLEXANDER 
GARNITURE . .... 

TEAL, PARTRIDGE AND SMALL FOWL . 
TURKEY A LA BURBANK .... 



170 

105 
135 
142 
122 
68 
121 
179 

172 

160 

64 

65 
123 
183 



Meats — Meat Dishes and Sauces 

chili con carne . . . . 
cream sauce a la worcestershire . 

hash a new method 

[xxiv] 



98 

89 
133 



CONTENTS 



PAGE 


HAM AND EGGS 139 


HOG JOWL AND TURNIP GREENS 




48 


HORSERADISH SAUCE .... 




150 


LAMB CURRY A LA "OMAR THE 


TEN1 


r 


maker" 




91 


MEAT LOAF 




84 


PELOTAS A LA PORTUGUESE 




103 


RABBIT, TO COOK 




185 


RAGOUT DE MOUTON . 




99 


ROAST BEEF, TIPS ON COOKING . 




96 


ROGNONS DE VEAU A l'aLEXANDER 




66 


ROUND STEAK REALLY DELICIOUS 




87 


SANCOCHO (FROM ECUADOR) 




93 


SPICED GRAPES 






161 


STEAK AND KIDNEY PIE 






86 


STEAK SAUCE 






125 


STEAK, TIPS ON . 






189 


TERRAPJN 






81 


TRIPE A LA MODE DE CAEN 






163 


USHKA (POLISH) 






114 


VEAU SAUTE MARENGO 






148 


VOL AU VENT FINANCIERE . 






149 


VENISON STEAK . 






120 


VIRGINIA HAM 






31 


WABASH VALLEY STEAK 






187 



Vegetables and the Like 

ARTICHOKES MISTER ANTONIO 
ASPARAGUS .... 
BEANS (VARIOUS STYLES) . 
BURACHKI (POLISH) . 
EGGPLANT AU GRATIN 



123, 



[xxv] 



57 

78 

167 

117 

162 



CONTENTS 



EGGPLANT SAUTE A L ALEXANDER 

FRENCH FRIED ONIONS 

ITALIAN RICE 

MORELS SAUTE . 

POTATO STICKS ALEXANDER 

rice a la manhattan 
savory potatoes 
"scolloped" mushrooms . 
tomato sop 
turnip greens . 
yapingacho (from ecuador) 

Spaghetti — Macaroni — Etc. 



MACARONI STEW, ZITELLIS 
MACARONI WITH CHEESE . 
SPAGHETTI . 
SPAGHETTI DIABOLIQUE 
SPAGHETTI FOR-THE-GANG 
SPAGHETTI-MY-STYLE 
SPAGHETTI SAUCES 
SPAGHETTI WITH PELOTAS . 



63 

138 

124 

174 

63 

127 

75 

83 

95 

48 

94 



154 
75 
35 
169 
146 
197 

118,146,154 
103 



Salads and Salad Dressings 

DRESSING (FOR STUFFED TOMATOES, COLD 

MEAT, POTATO SALAD ) . 
LETTUCE A LA RED CREEK . 
A MAYONNAISE AND A SALAD DRESSING 
PANDORA FRENCH DRESSING 

RADISH SALAD 

ROMAINE SALAD A l'aLEXANDER 
SALADE A LA TURC .... 
VEGETABLE SALAD .... 

[xxvi] 



188 

131 

122 

192 

38 

66 

191 

46 



CONTENTS 



Desserts — Cakes — Pies — Puddings 



PAGE 



BREAD TARTS 140 

COCOA CREAM CAKE 159 

CORN PUDDING 80 

COTTAGE PUDDING WITH STRAWBERRY 

SAUCE 82 

DEEP APPLE PIE 130 

DESSERT, A 72 

FRIED ELDERBERRY BLOSSOMS . . . 70 

INDIAN PUDDING 156 

JAMES MONTGOMERY SUDS . . . . 53 

LEMON LAYER CAKE 181 

LEMON PIE 187 

MINCE-PIE 109 

ORANGE COMPOTE 152 

PEACH COBBLER 71 

PANDOWDY 45 

PIE 143 

PIE CRUST Ill, 144 

RASPBERRY SHORTCAKE . . . 60 

RICE PUDDING 39 

STRAWBERRY TARTLETS ALEXANDER . . 67 

Cheese and Cheese Dishes 

CELERY STUFFED WITH CHEESE . . . 151 

FONDU AU FROMAGE A lVlEXANDER . . 65 

LIEDERKRANZ A LA HOOSIER ... 40 

RUM-TUM-TIDDY 106 

TOMATO WIGGLE 155 

WELSH RABBIT (a DIPLOMATIST^ RECIPE ) 176 

WELSH RABBIT A LA MORGAN ROBERTSON 193 

[xxvii] 



THE STAG COOK BOOK 



"This dish of meat is too good for 
any but anglers, or very honest men." 

Izaak Walton. 



Meredith Nicholson 

WABASH VALLEY STEAK 

No man can be a hero in his own kitchen. No man 
with the slightest regard for domestic peace will ever 
permit his wife to see him cook without having outsiders 
present. The psychology of this is obvious. Impatient 
though a woman may be of her husband's attempts to 
show that he is a real sport and skilled in all the arts 
of social entertaining, before guests she is likely to mani- 
fest a modest degree of pride in his performances. Or 
even if slightly contemptuous she is moved to assume a 
chaffing attitude that adds to the general good feeling. 
I beg not to be confused with the type of bachelor club 
man who is a perfect wizard with the chafing dish. I 
have always viewed those birds with suspicion. Their 
tricks are few and easy of accomplishment — stunts with 
mushrooms, or chicken a la king done nonchalantly in a 
dinner coat. I sing my fiercest hymn of hate of those 
persons. 

My own method is to assume full charge of an orderly 
kitchen, removing coat and waistcoat, donning an apron 
and attacking the job without apology or simper or the 

[31] 



THE STAG COOK BOOK 

■MirniinTMiWTimfiTTiwmrTwiTTrnir^**"^ ——————— ~~— —""-'— "in 1 m 1 .nrrmm 

silly pretense that I'm not sure of the result. Not sure! 
Except in the case of colored women cooks, who trust 
to inspiration and achieve miracles without, seemingly, 
knowing how they do 'em — except, I say, in such in- 
stances, cookery is an exact science. If you follow a 
good rule and know how to regulate the range and have 
a true eye and acute nose, failure is obliterated from the 
lexicon. 

And now for my scenario, which I stole from a lady, 
who in turn stole it, I dare say, from some cook book. 
I might pretend that I invented it, but I didn't. All I 
claim is that it offers an Olympian feast — particularly if 
you can accompany it with hot biscuits, which I admit 
are beyond my powers. 

The Recipe 



Take a round steak cut two inches thick; and beat a 
cup of flour into it. Heat a large skillet till it is piping 
hot with lard covering the bottom about one inch. Put 
in the steak, cover immediately, and allow it to cook 
about five minutes, turning once. 

Then cover it with a sauce composed in this wise: 

Four large tomatoes 
Four onions 

Four green mango peppers 
Four ripe pimentoes 

Put through a grinder or better still chop thoroughly 
with a chopper in a wooden bowl. Don't skimp on this 

[32] 



WRITTEN FOR MEN BY MEN 



labor ; the chopping must be done conscientiously. Season 
with salt and pour over the steak; cook slowly for two 
hours. When done turn into a large platter and serve 
piping hot. 



[33] 



THE STAG COOK BOOK 



ii 



Rex Beach 

ONION CLAM CHOWDER 

To each 10 oz. can of Pioneer Brand Minced Clams 
use i pound of sliced Spanish or white onion. 

For a good sized chowder take six large onions (white), 
and cut in lengths one inch long. Pour the juice from 
the clams into saucepan, add onions and a little water 
and boil thoroughly until onions are well cooked and 
soft. Then add clams which have been taken out of 
the can and put into a dish, and stew five minutes before 
onions are done. Next place in a stew pan about a pint 
of cream or half cream and half milk and let come to a 
boil. After the clams have been in with the onions for 
about three minutes pour on the hot milk and season to 
taste with salt and pepper. If serving in a soup plate, a 
little chopped parsley adds to the attractiveness of the 
dish. Then EAT it. 

(You can substitute for fresh milk or cream — Carnation 
Canned Milk diluted — % milk to % water. The soup 
should be thick and not too watery. This can be regulated 
by amount of milk added.) 



[34] 



WRITTEN FOR MEN BY MEN 



in 



Hudson Maxim 



SPAGHETTI 

Take one package of vermicelli or spaghetti, and put 
it into a saucepan, crushing it in the hand, then put in 
hot water, and salt a little more than will suit the taste, 
and boil for an hour. 

While the vermicelli or spaghetti is cooking, take a 
quart of milk and heat three-quarters — or 24 ounces — of 
it until it boils. Then stir into the eight ounces of cold 
milk a level cupful of flour, or two tablespoonfuls of flour, 
pretty well heaped, and then stir the thickened milk into 
the boiling milk and cook slowly for ten minutes. 

Then add three-quarters of a pound of good, ripe, old 
American cheese, and about half a pound of butter. Then 
drain the water ofr the vermicelli or spaghetti and put 
in from one and one half pints to a quart of canned 
tomatoes. Heat the vermicelli or spaghetti to the boiling 
point; and while the mixture of cheese, butter, milk and 
flour is still hot, stir the two together, then keep hot and 
serve hot. Do not boil any more, because further boiling 
would tend to cause the tomatoes to coagulate the milk 
in the mixture. I prefer to use a mixture of spaghetti and 
vermicelli instead of all spaghetti or all vermicelli. 



[35] 



THE STAG COOK BOOK 



IV 

War r en G. Harding 

WAFFLES 

2 eggs 

2 tablespoons sugar 

2 tablespoons butter 

i teaspoon salt 

1 pint milk 

flour to make thin batter 

2 large teaspoons of baking powder 

Beat yolks of eggs, add sugar and salt, melt butter, add 
milk and flour; last just before ready to bake add beaten 
whites of eggs and baking powder. 

Bake on hot waffle iron. 



Editor's Note: — There is a great deal of argument about 
the proper dressing for waffles. Various gravies are used by 
one school of waffle eaters ; while honey, maple syrup, and 
various specially flavored sugar powders are preferred by 
another. 

President Harding is a staunch upholder of the gravy 
school and likes his in the form of creamed chipped beef. 

[36] 



WRITTEN FOR MEN BY MEN 



Ellis Parker Butler 

BOUILLABAISSE JOE TILDEN 

In a soup kettle put four tablespoonsful of genuine olive 
oil. When hot enough fry in it two large onions, sliced, 
and two cloves of garlic chopped. Cut two pounds of 
any sort of firm white-textured fish into small pieces and 
put in the kettle, just covering the mixture with warm 
water. 

Now have the Eighteenth Amendment repealed and add 
to the mixture one cup of White Wine, the juice of half 
a lemon, two large tomatoes (peeled and cut up), pepper, 
salt and one or two bay leaves. 

Cook this briskly for twelve minutes, by which time the 
liquor should be one third evaporated. Now add a table- 
spoonful of chopped parsley. Joe Tilden added a pinch of 
saffron, but I don't care for it. Cook two minutes longer 
and serve ladled on slices of French bread. 



Editor's Note: — Moquin's have made a luncheon specialty 
of Bouillabaisse for many years. They add lobster and eel. 
Here is a wonderful dish to experiment with — great fun and 
delicious results if you try it once or twice. It's a habit- 
forming dish, so beware! 

[37] 



THE STAG COOK BOOK 



VI 



Jules J. Jusserand 

(Ambassador to the United States from France) 

RADISH SALAD 

The French ambassador presents his compliments and 
begs to state that he does not believe that any dish, or 
food, is more palatable than a salad of radishes, the 
radishes to be cut in very thin slices and to be seasoned 
with the usual salad dressing. 



Editor's Note: — This salad will be at its best if the founda- 
tion, upon which the thin slices of radish are placed, is made 
of small crisp leaves of romaine. The usual dressing — 
f rench, of course — is prepared in this way : 

To one tablespoonful of lemon or vinegar add three table- 
spoonsful of the best olive oil, a dash of black pepper, and a 
half teaspoonful of salt. Beat well with a silver fork, and add 
enough paprika to give it a ruddy color, and a rich flavor. 
If the salad dish is rubbed with garlic it will do no great 
harm to the mixture! 

[38] 



WRITTEN FOR MEN BY MEN 



VII 



Bruce Barton 

RICE PUDDING 

I am president of the S. R. R. R. P. — the Society for 
Restoration of Raisins to Rice Pudding. 

I have made a list of New York hotels and clubs and 
rated them according to the number of raisins they put 
in a portion of rice pudding as follows: 
Class D — no raisins 
Class C — I raisin 
Class B — 3 or more raisins 
Class A — plenty of raisins 
To my mind, rice pudding without raisins is like Hamlet 
without the eggs. 

I cup rice 
4 cups milk 
3 eggs 
y 2 CU P sugar 
I teaspoonful salt 
I package seedless raisins 
i teaspoon of vanilla 

Bake one hour in a hot oven. Set the pan inside of 
another containing hot water. 

Serve with whipped cream and garnish with Dromedary 
dates. 

Editor's Note: — Cook the rice twenty-three minutes. 

[39] 



THE STAG COOK BOOK 



VIII 



Richard Bennett 

LIEDERKRANZ A LA HOOSIER 

Run around and find a real nice Liederkranz cheese 
and treat it as follows to get a serving for four people: 

Mix the cheese with about a quarter of a pound of 
butter and work into a fine paste, adding salt, pepper, 
French mustard, paprika and Worcestershire sauce as 
you go along. Just add them to taste. 

When the paste is smooth put in one finely chopped 
small green pepper; one small onion, or chives. 

Mix well! 

And serve on rye bread — spread thick. To be thor- 
oughly technical, I suppose I should have said: spread 
to taste! 



Editor's Note : — You can have a wonderful time and make 
quite a reputation for yourself by inventing cheese combi- 
nations. Ordinary cream cheese makes a splendid base for 
original mixtures. Try combinations of finely minced pimento, 
celery, olives, chives and peppers (green and red). And 
anything else that promises well. 

[40] 



WRITTEN FOR MEN BY MEN 



IX 



TV^alt Louderback 

CORN CHOWDER 

/ believe my favorite recipe is Corn Chowder. 

The appetite for this dish must be approached from 
the windy side of a promontory in early spring with a 
sixty pound pack between the shoulder blades, aforemen- 
tioned pack to contain for a couple of congenial souls 
a pound of bacon, a pound of dry onions, two cans of 
corn and one large tin of condensed milk. 

Cut the bacon up into small half inch squares and start 
it frying. Simultaneously slice the onions and give them 
the heat. If, after the aroma from these two begins to 
permeate the air, you feel like risking their falling into 
the fire, start boiling the corn and milk. Before the onions 
are too thoroughly cooked stir them into the bacon, at 
which time the battle for the supremacy of the appetizing 
odors is occupying most of your attention. 

Now throw the- bacon and onions into the corn pot 
and wait as long as you are able so that the ingredients 
become thoroughly familiar with one another. 

Write me as soon as you get home if you don't remem- 
ber that day until you are an old man. 

To make this sound extremely professional I suppose 
I should add, "Season to taste, ,, but do not mind if a few 
ashes get mixed in by mistake. 

[41] 



THE STAG COOK BO'OK 



Captain Robert A. Bartlett, 

U.S.A. 

COI> FISH 

Here is my favorite dish. Viz. : — Fresh Labrador Cod- 
fish caught during the Caplin school. The fish is at this 
time in splendid condition. 

Here is the recipe: 

Place a small bake pot upon a wood fire ; then take a 
few strips of fat pork, cut up into small pieces and put 
into the bake pot. When the pork fat has melted you 
cut the fish into several small pieces and place in the 
pot. In about twenty minutes the fish is cooked. The 
fish must be eaten from the pot with a wooden spoon. 



[42] 



WRITTEN FOR MEN BY MEN 



XI 



George F. Worts 

SWEET POTATO PONE 

There are two sure ways of identifying a true south- 
erner. One of them is to play "Dixie." Unlike your 
northerner, or counterfeit southerner who springs to his 
feet and looks exalted and proud when the band strikes 
up that swinging anthem, your true, or southern south- 
erner rarely springs. Generally he just sets and waggles 
one boot, and looks happy or sentimental, according to 
his nature. That is one way of detecting your true 
southerner. The second and surer way is to announce in 
a tremulous voice: "Gemmen, dat potato pone am done 
set." 

The sweet potato pone is strictly a southern dish. It 
is served south of the Mason and Dixon line hot and 
smoking. You don't need much experience as a cook, 
although the old rule which also places "perfect" after 
"practice" of course holds good. Your ninth potato pone 
will be better than your third. Here is the how: 

Grind up raw sweet potatoes in a meat chopper until 
you have one quart. Mix the grind ings thoroughly in a 
bowl with molasses — enough molasses so the mass is soft 
and sticky, or spongy. 

Mix in a heaping tablespoonful of lard. 

[43] 



THE STAG COOK BOOK 
■ ———■-— --■—"■""■■■■"■ m — —■"'"" * mmmmm mmmmlmm 

Add a teaspoonful of allspice. 

Put the mixture in a cake tin and place in a slow oven. 
Stir constantly until a rich brown hue is attained, then 
smooth over with a knife or spoon and allow to bake 
slowly until a mellow brown crust is formed. 

Remove from oven, allow to cool slightly, cut in slices 
and serve. General Robert E. Lee would walk ten miles 
for a slice of it. 



[44] 



WRITTEN FOR MEN BY MEN 



XII 



Gelett Burgess 

PANDOWDY 

In a quart pudding dish arrange alternate layers of 
sliced apples and bits of bread; place on each layer dots 
of butter, a little sugar, and a pinch each of ground 
cinnamon, cloves and allspice. 

When the dish is filled, pour over it half a cupful each 
of molasses and water, mixed well; cover the top with 
bread crumbs. 

Place the dish in a pan containing hot water, and bake 
for three-quarters of an hour, or until the apples are soft. 

Serve hot, with cream or any light pudding sauce. 

Raisins or chopped almonds are sometimes added. 



[45] 



THE STAG COOK BOOK 



XIII 



TV^illiam Allen TVhite 

VEGETABLE SALAD 

My idea of good food is a vegetable salad. Any kind 
of a vegetable salad is good ; some are better than others. 
Here is a recipe for a French dressing on a lettuce salad 
which you should try on your meat grinder, or your 
potato masher, or your rolling pin or whatever kitchen 
utensil you can play. 

Get a crisp* head of lettuce, discard the outer green 
leaves, using the inner yellow and white. Wash it thor- 
oughly, and after pulling it apart dry each leaf with a 
tea towel. Put it in a big bowl — a big mixing bowl, six 
inches deep anyway. Then set that to one side, and get 
about as much onion as the end of your first finger would 
make, if it was chopped off at the second joint. Mince 
that. Put it in the bottom of a bowl. Take a large 
tablespoon; put in salt and paprika to taste, and don't be 
afraid of making it salty, then add oil and vinegar, about 
three or four to one, mixing them in the spoon until it 
slops over into the onion, and then stir the salt and 
paprika and oil and vinegar down into the bowl of minced 
onion, taking a salad fork and jabbing it around in the 
mixture until the onion has been fairly well crushed and 
the onion flavor permeates the mixed, oil and vinegar, and 

[46] 



WRITTEN FOR MEN BY MEN 

the salt and paprika have become for the moment a part 
of the mass. Don't let it stand a second, but pour it 
quickly into the bowl of dry lettuce, and then stir like 
the devil. Keep on stirring; stir some more, and serve 
as quickly as possible. 

Cheese may be mashed into the onion before putting 
on the oil and vinegar and paprika and salt. If one 
wants to add tomatoes, wait until the last three jabs of 
the stirring fork into the lettuce, and then quarter the 
tomatoes and turn them in just before you turn the lettuce 
over the last two or three times. This is done so that 
the watery juice of the tomatoes won't get smeared over 
the oil on the lettuce leaves. If you stir the tomatoes* in 
early, you get a runny, watery, gooey mess. Cucumbers 
may be added, and they should be stirred in rather earlier 
than the tomatoes in the business of mixing the lettuce 
leaves and the dressing. Green peppers may be added if 
they are cut into strings, but too much outside fixings 
spoils the salad for me. The tomatoes are about as, far 
as» one can go wisely. 



[47] 



THE STAG COOK BOOK 



XIV 



Irvin $. Cobb 

HOG JOWL AND TURNIP GREENS 

Paducah Style 

For a person who has written so copiously about food 
and the pleasures of eating it, I probably know less of 
the art of preparing it than any living creature. I cannot 
give my favorite recipe because I have none; but I am 
glad to give the names of my two favorite dishes, to wit, 
as follows:' 

1st— Hog* jowl and turnip greens — Paducah style? 
2nd — Another helping of the, same. 



Editor's Note: — Hog' Jowl, Paducah. Style,, may be pre- 
pared like this: 

Get the jowl. Some prefer it cooked and served with the 
bone ; others remove the bone before serving. Boil it in well 
salted water for thirty minutes, then add the turnip greens and 
boil at least thirty minutes longer. Serve with plenty of butter 
for dressing; a dash of vinegar and a semi-colon of mustard 
are used by some folks who are hard to please. 

Beet greens could be used but they are not considered 
au fait, and to use spinach is an absolute faux pas. 

[48] 



WRITTEN FOR MEN BY MEN 



xv 



Richard JV^alton Tully 

HAWAIIAN CROQUETTES A LA "THE 
BIRD OF PARADISE" 

It was about fifteen years ago that I first visited the 
Hawaiian Islands in search of material for my play, "The 
Bird of Paradise," and during the course of my sojourn 
I made many friends among the natives, often living weeks 
at a time with them in out-of-the-way villages. Although 
their food was radically different from ours in many of its 
contents and modes of making, it was always palatable, 
and often strikingly delicious. However, most of the 
native dishes contained ingredients which we cannot ob- 
tain here, but I did learn how to make what some of 
my friends have nick-named Hawaiian Croquettes a la 
"Bird of Paradise," the materials for which are easily pro- 
cured. And it is a dish so wonderfully appetizing that I 
constantly prepare it for guests of epicurean tastes. 

First grate the meat of half a cocoanut, and add to it 
a cup of (cow's) milk, mixing thoroughly, and straining 
through cloth. Melt two tablespoonsful of butter over 
a low flame, rubbing into it with the back of a spoon 
five tablespoonsful of flour, stirring until very smooth. 
Then add slowly the strained cocoanut and milk liquid, 
stirring constantly until very thick. Season meanwhile 

[49] 



THE STAG COOK BOOK 

with one and a half teaspoonsful of salt; one of paprika, 
and one of grated onion. Finally add two cups of cold, 
boiled, shredded mullet, or any other firm white fish, and 
two cups of cold, boiled, chopped lobster, and after stir- 
rings allow to cool. 

Shape into croquettes, or balls, allowing a rounded 
tablespoonful to each ball; roll in fine cracker crumbs; 
dip into an egg which has been slightly beaten and ta 
which one-quarter of a cup of water has been added ; again* 
roll in cracker crumbs. 

Have a deep pan of fat, hot enough to fry a piece* of 
bread a golden brown while you count forty, and cook the 
croquettes therein for about a minute; then drain on 
paper, and serve with olives. 



[Sol 



WRITTEN FOR MEN BY MEN 



XVI 



William Johnston 



OYSTERS PECHEUR 

One keg of freshly dredged oysters put on the deck of 
the schooner not later than eight p. m. 

One hundred pounds of ice put on top of the oysters. 

Shell and eat at 5 a. m. on the way to the fishing 
grounds with salt to taste, and occasional draughts of 
hot coffee. 



[51] 



THE STAG COOK BOOK 



XVII 



Dr. Charles M. Sheldon 

LIKES BREAD AND MILK 

A recipe of my favorite dish is very simple — bread and 
milk with American cheese broken into it. I eat this 
dish once a day every day and find it wholesome and 
nourishing. It does not require any skillful putting to- 
gether, simply a good appetite and a taste for that sort 
of provender. If there is an apple pie anywhere around 
to top it off with, I do not despise that. 

I find as a rule that the simpler and more elementary 
the food, the better so far as the body is concerned. And 
take it the year around a bowl of milk with fresh bread 
and rich American cheese, finishing up with "good apple 
pie like mother used to make," is all the midday meal 
I need. I can work on that all the afternoon and feel 
better than if I had had a seven course dinner. 



[52] 



WRITTEN FOR MEN BY MEN 



XVIII 



James Montgomery Flagg 

"JAMES MONTGOMERY SUDS" 

This is a dessert. When a Swedish cook is put on her 
mettle to suggest a dessert — something different — she 
stands a while in uffish thought, then breaks out into a 
smile of satisfaction and says "Snow Pudding"! It's 
Swede law. The Swedes must suggest Snow Pudding 
when asked for an original thought in the dessert line. 

So this dessert of mine was a protest. 

There is one very difficult ingredient — wine jelly ! The 
jelly is easy enough, but where in Jell do you get the 
wine? 

If you don't have wine jelly — it's all off — no use be- 
ginning. If you can get the wine then you put some 
cut-up oranges in wine jelly with an inch layer of beaten 
whites of eggs on top and lightly brown this. A loose 
custard is poured on each helping. It sounds rather punk 
and ladieshomejournalish but is a perfectly good dessert. 



[53] 



THE STAG COOK BOOK 



XIX 



Roy L. McCardell 

"EGGS MUSHROOMETTE" 

This is the queen of breakfast dishes and should be 
served, of course, with broiled ham, the king of breakfast 
dishes, hot buttered toast, and several cups of fresh-made, 
fragrant and just-strong-enough- to-bring-out-full-flavor, 
percolated coffee! 

Recipe 

Peel and slice a half pound of fresh mushrooms and 
cook in butter in old-fashioned frying pan till nearly 
done. The pan is now good and hot. Moderate the heat 
and put in three fresh eggs and fry them very slowly, 
constantly basting top of eggs with the hot butter the 
mushrooms have been cooking in. Cook well, slowly and 
thoroughly till all the mushrooms that attach are nestling 
in the white of the eggs like plums in a pudding. Serve, 
when thoroughly cooked, with the broiled ham, fresh 
coffee, and hot buttered toast. 

This dish, as here described, is for one person only — 
as it is too good to be shared with anybody else. 

P. S. — Eggs should never be fried so quickly that 
the whites are cooked to isinglass. Cook them slowly, 

[54] 



w 



RITTEN FOR MEN BY MEN 



surely, thoroughly and baste with hot mushroom butter 
as directed, and you will have Eggs Mushroomette and 
have eaten a poem! 



[55] 



THE STAG COOK BOOK 



xx 



Judge Ben B. Lindsey 



BRAN MUFFINS 

Judge Lindsey's favorite recipe is one for Bran Muffins, 
as follows: 

i pint milk 

i egg 

Y2. pound wheat flour 

% pound bran flour 

2 tablespoonsful molasses 

2 ounces pecan meats {y^s or %s) 

2 ounces sugar 

2 ounces butter 

Y^ ounce salt 

2 ounces Sultana raisins 

I ounce baking powder 

Sufficient for 18 muffins. 

Bake 30 minutes in well-heated oven. 



Editor's Note: — The addition of Pecan meats with the 
raisins produces a muffin that — well, the line might better have 
ended thus : produces a muffin I 

[56] 



WRITTEN FOR MEN BY MEN 



XXI 



Otis Skinner 

ARTICHOKES, MISTER ANTONIO 

Force a small opening in the head of the artichoke by 
giving it a blow upon the table. Then, into the center 
pour a dessertspoonful of olive oil in which a little salt 
and pepper have been mixed. To this add a quarter of 
a clove of garlic. 

Place the artichokes in such position that they may not 
be overturned. Surround them with cold water, and 
allow them to boil, covered and undisturbed, for half 
an hour. 

This is an Italian method, and by following it one may 
understand why an artichoke need not taste as flat as 
boiled hay. 



[57] 



THE STAG COOK BOOK 



XXII 



Dan Beard 



A BURGOO 

Clean and dress the meat of a soft-shelled turtle, a 
painted turtle, a poker-dot turtle, or almost any other 
kind of turtle. Clean and dress a rabbit, a ruffled grouse, 
moose meat, elk meat, deer meat, sheep meat, in fact 
any sort of game. Cut your meat into pieces about the 
size of inch cubes. Save the bones, especially the marrow 
bones, to put in with the meat. Add some salt pork cut 
into cubes, if you have it. 

If you have been thoughtful enough to supply your 
outfit with some ill-smelling, but palatable dry vegetables, 
they will add flavor to your burgoo, put all the material 
in a kettle, and fill the kettle half full of water. If 
you have beans and potatoes do not put them in with 
the meat because they will go to the bottom and 
scorch. While the stuff you have already put in the 
kettle is boiling, or simmering, peel your onions and 
quarter them, scrape your carrots and slice them, peel your 
potatoes, cut them up into pieces — about inch cubes. 
After your caldron has commenced to boil dump in the 
fresh vegetables, they will cool off the water and kill 
the boil. Do not let it come to a boil again, but put 
it over a slow fire and allow it to simmer. There should 

[58] 



WRITTEN FOR MEN BY MEN 

always be enough water to cover the vegetables. A can 
of tomatoes will add greatly to the flavor. Use no sweet 
vegetables like beets or sweet potatoes. Put the salt and 
pepper in just before you take it off the fire. When the 
burgoo is done, strain it into tin cups. The liquid out of 
an olive bottle adds greatly to the flavor if you pour it 
in while the stew is cooking. If you have such luxuries 
in camp as olives and lemons, a slice of lemon with an 
olive in each cup over which the liquid is poured makes 
a dish too good for any old king that ever lived. 

The excellence of a burgoo depends upon two things, 
the materials you have of which to make it and the care 
you take in cooking.it. No two burgoos are alike, and 
every one J ever tasted was mighty good. Civilized 
material such as can be purchased at the butcher shop 
and the vegetable store makes a good soup, but the "goo" 
isn't there. Consequently you cannot call it a burgoo. 



[59] 



THE STAG COOK BOOK 



XXIII 

De Wolf Hopper 

RASPBERRY SHORTCAKE 

RASPBERRY SHORTCAKE, with the assistance of 
a rich and kindly disposed cow, meaning lacteal fluid on 
same — that is my chief debauch ! 

Recipe {for two people) 

Sift a level teaspoonful of baking powder and a scant 
half teaspoonful of salt through a cupful of flour. See 
that the mixture is thorough. Take lard or butter (butter 
is best) and work it well into the flour until it crumbles 
under the fingers. Use plenty of finger work. Now add 
a very small quantity of milk and work into a dough that 
is easily rolled and flattened on a floured board. Roll 
out and cut in round cakes to fit cake tins. Have cakes 
about a half inch thick. Bake in a moderate oven until 
light golden in color. In serving have lots of berries — 
half of them — crushed. Split the shortcakes and butter 
them, if desired. Above all use thick, rich cream in gen- 
erous doses. The dish is really best when the cakes are 
just from the oven — instead of cold. 

The same goes for strawberry shortcake and makes 
the only real genuine old-fashioned shortcake, 

[60] 



WRITTEN FOR MEN BY MEN 



XXIV 



Chick Evans 



TOMATO SOUP 

I have a fondness for tomato soup and steak without 
grizzles. Since almost any one can broil a steak I'll pass 
that up and tell you how to play cream of tomato right 
around the kitchen course in par. 

You can take ripe tomatoes, cut them up, stew them 
and put them through a strainer. You can add a bit of 
soup stock and seasoning and all that, but the easy way 
is to take some of Mr. Campbell's tomato soup and add 
milk instead of water — only use more soup, per person, 
than the can label calls for. 

Don't boil it — but when the soup is good and hot give 
it a bit of informal seasoning and then stir in a lot of stiff 
whipped cream. Keep back enough of the whipped cream 
to put a big spoonful of it in the center of each plate. 

Use the can opener at the first tee and with luck you'll 
be on the dinner table in an easy three. Play out of the 
soup plate with a good sized spoon for a par four — and 
there you are! 

You'll be able to whip the cream without detailed 
directions. The important thing is choosing the right 
egg beater or cream whipper or whatever you use. The 
next important thing in whipping cream is stance. You'll 

[61] 



THE STAG COOK BOOK 

gradually acquire that, after you've spattered the front 
of your vest a time or two, and hooked a few long ones 
to the wall paper. I believe that there are some safety 
devices for whipping cream, but they take all the sport 
and excitement out of the thing. 



[62] 



WRITTEN FOR MEN BY MEN 



XXV 

Joshua A. Hatfield 

EGGPLANT SAUTE A L'ALEXANDER 

For About 12 People 

Take two large eggplants, have them peeled and cut 
into large flakes of about 1%. inches in size, season with 
pepper and salt, pass through flour and fry in hot fat 
pan to brown color; chop finely and saute to yellow color, 
six French shallots and two beans of garlic, and add to 
the eggplant. Keep stirring on moderate fire for about 
three minutes, serve in vegetable dish and spray with 
chopped parsley. 

POTATO STICKS ALEXANDER 

Take six nice boiled potatoes, let them drain and pass 
through sieve, put in stewing pan on the fire, add four 
yolks of eggs, one spoonful of fresh butter, one spoonful 
of puff paste; one green pepper, one sweet pepper, two 
slices of boiled ham and parsley all finely chopped, and 
pepper and salt to taste. 

Mix while on the fire for about five minutes, then let 
it cool down. 

Of this dough roll sticks of J^ inch in diameter by 

[63] 



THE STAG COOK BOOK 

iy 2 inches long, pass through flour, beaten egg, and white 
bread crumbs, fry in fat pan and serve on napkin with 
fried parsley. 



COLD SAUCE ALEXANDER 

{Served at India House with Cold Salmon) 
For 12 People 

Incorporate into good mayonnaise, chopped chives, par- 
sley, chervil, two tablespoonsful of French mustard and 
dash of Worcestershire sauce, paprika, pepper and salt; 
stir well. 



SUPREME OF CHICKEN A L'ALEXANDER 

Take the breast of a four-pound roasting chicken (stuff 
very lightly with a filling made of chicken, cream and 
fresh mushrooms mixed with white of egg) and have it 
poached in butter and chicken broth. After being done 
remove the supreme and have the sauce reduced to one- 
quarter of its volume, then incorporate first one table- 
spoonful of sweet butter and add six finely chopped 
French shallots, one-half glass of white wine, two spoons- 
ful of brown sauce (demi-glace), season well with pepper 
and salt, let it cook for about three minutes, and strain 
through fine sieve. 

Dish supreme on a fried canape cut to shape and sauce it. 

[64] 



WRITTEN FOR MEN BY MEN 



Garniture 

Fried eggplant cut in Julienne shape 
Green peppers saute in butter 
Fresh tomatoes saute 

Arrange the vegetables around the supreme on platter 
by keeping them each separately and serve sauce apart. 



FONDU AU FROMAGE A V ALEXANDER 

Melt two tablespoonsful of butter and work with three 
spoonsful of flour into light brown color; add one pint 
of milk, let it boil for five minutes, constantly stirring; 
incorporate J^ pound of grated Swiss cheese or domestic 
Roquefort, a little salt and paprika, and bind with six 
yolks of eggs; let cool down. 

This preparation cut and roll into sticks of Y^ inches 
diameter by 1J/2 inches long, pass through flour, beaten 
egg and bread crumbs, and fry crisp in hot fat pan. 

Serve in napkin with fried parsley. 



POACHED EGGS EN CROUSTADE A 
L'ALEXANDER 

Work into a dough T / 2 pound of flour, one tablespoon- 
ful of butter, two whole eggs and a little salt; cut this 
pie-crust dough into tartlette forms, say 3 inches in diam- 
eter, place in molds and bake in moderate oven. 

[65] 



THE STAG COOK BOOK 

Melt two tablespoonsful of fresh butter, add 12 finely 
chopped shallots, ^ pound of finely chopped fresh mush- 
rooms, pepper, salt, and let it simmer, by constantly stir- 
ring, until it is thoroughly cooked, and finish with chopped 
parsley; mix well into this two tablespoonsful of demi- 
glace. Cover the bottom of tartlettes with a layer of this 
preparation, place a freshly poached egg on top, cover 
with thick cream sauce, spray with grated Parmesan 
cheese, a dash of melted butter, and bake in moderate 
oven for about five minutes. 

Dish up on napkin with crisp fried parsley. 

ROMAINE SALAD A V ALEXANDER 

Decorate half a head of Romaine with sliced grape- 
fruit, sliced orange and white grapes split and seeded, 
or large black cherries. 

Prepare dressing as follows: Incorporate into French 
dressing finely chopped chives, French mustard and tea- 
spoonful of red currant jelly; mix well and use as dress- 
ing for above salad. 

ROGNONS DE VEAU A ^ALEXANDER 

Take six fresh veal kidneys, remove skin and fat, and 
cut to very small cubes, adding J / 2 pound of very fine 
chopped fresh mushrooms, and put aside. 

Melt two tablespoonsful of butter with twelve finely 
chopped shallots and brown to a nice golden color. Add 
[66] 



WRITTEN FOR MEN BY MEN 

the kidneys and mushrooms and let it simmer for about 
eight minutes, taking good care not to let it cook too 
much, preventing the kidneys from getting hard; incor- 
porate into this appareil one pint of demi-glace, one 
cup of bread crumbs (for thickening) chopped parsley, 
pepper and salt, and let it cool down. 

Cut round canapes of bread 3 inches in diameter, and 
Y2 inch thick, and fry in butter to crusts, and drain; 
then cover the crusts with this preparation to a half ball 
shape, pass through beaten egg, spray with a mixture of 
bread crumbs and grated parmesan cheese and dash of 
melted butter on top and bake in moderate oven for 
about ten minutes. 

Dish up on napkin with fried parsley, and serve with 
demi-glace sauce separate. 

STRAWBERRY TARTLETS ALEXANDER 

Work into a dough J^ pound of flour, *4 pound sugar, 
I tablespoonful of butter, 2 whole eggs, and a little salt. 

Cut the dough to oval or round tartlet forms, have 
them baked in moderate oven, and after they are cooled 
down fill out the bottom of the tartlets with custard 
(Creme Patissiere). Cover the cream entirely with a 
layer of selected fresh whole strawberries, and apply, with 
a decorating brush, lightly diluted red currant jelly; 
spray the top with finely chopped pistachio nuts. 

BAKED OYSTERS ALEXANDER 
Open six large oysters, keep in deep half shell, place 

[67] 



THE STAG COOK BOOK 

MM— —MaMBBB— awana^BM^B— BMII III IBH'IIIM!— ^— H 

in roasting pan and cover with Sauce Alexander as fol- 
lows: 



MixU 



two tablespoonsful of Chili sauce 
one tablespoonful of horseradish sauce 
one tablespoonful of French mustard 
one dash of Worcestershire Sauce 
finely chopped chives, salt and pepper 



Take good care the oysters are entirely covered by 
the sauce, then spray with bread crumbs, and have them 
baked for about eight minutes. 

EMINCE OF CHICKEN A L'ALEXANDER 

Select a choice five-pound fowl, have it boiled, cut 
into flakes and put aside. 

' Brown in saucepan %. pound of butter and two table- 
spoonsful of flour to a nice yellow color, add to this one 
quart of chicken broth and let it boil for a few minutes, 
keeping on stirring it; beat into this sauce six yolks of 
eggs and the juice of two lemons, working it all the time, 
but taking good care not to let it boil any more; pass it 
through a fine sieve and keep it hot in Bain-Marie. 

Cut into flakes and saute in butter ^2 pound of fresh 
mushrooms, then take ^4 pound flaked boiled Virginia 
ham, one bunch of finely chopped Tarragon and mix this 
with the chicken flakes in the thoroughly heated sauce; 
season with salt, pepper and paprika to taste and serve 
in chafing dish; place on freshly made toast or hot buck- 
wheat cakes. 
[68] 



WRITTEN FOR MEN BY MEN 



XXVI 



Stewart Edward TVhite 



MULLIGAN 

This is a camp dish to be cooked over an open fire. 
I guarantee nothing on a stove. I know nothing of stoves, 
and have a dark suspicion of them. To make it: Place 
in a kettle half full of cold water either (a) fish cut in 
chunks, (b) a couple of dozen clams, or (c) a half dozen 
chunks of venison about the size of a tennis ball, depend- 
ing on whether you want a Fish Mulligan, a Clam Mulli- 
gan, or a Game Mulligan. Also depending on what you 
have. Also a half dozen peeled potatoes and three large 
onions. Salt and pepper, bring slowly to a boil. Add a 
handful of cubes of salt pork or bacon. Simmer slowly 
until the potatoes disintegrate. If you have the remains 
of a can of corn or a little residue of cold rice or any- 
thing of like nature, drop them in. Next put in all the 
stale bread or hard tack the traffic will bear. Dissolve a 
tablespoonful of flour in a little warm water, and stir 
that in for thickening. Cook slowly until you can't stand 
it any longer, and fly to it. 



[69] 



THE STAG COOK BOOK 



XXVII 



Oliver Herford 

FRIED ELDERBERRY BLOSSOMS 

This sounds like a joke but it is a perfectly serious 
dish — I made its acquaintance at the table of a little inn' 
in South Baden, on the shores of Lake Constance. 

First you must wait until the elderberry bushes are in 
full bloom. Then you gather a good sized bunch of them- 
— and cut off each blossom just below the point where 
the little stems join the main stalk. 

These you dip into a light egg batter such as is used 
to make apple fritters (lighter, perhaps), taking care to 
cover both the flower and as much of the little stalks as 
possible. They should be served like fritters as soon as- 
made. 



[70] 



WRITTEN FOR MEN BY MEN 



XXVIII 

Reed Smoot 

PEACH COBBLER 

One of my favorite dishes is peach cobbler. I am told 
that it originated in the south, but its fame has spread 
far beyond the limits of the Mason and Dixon line. It 
is made in this way : 

Line a baking dish or pan, about three and one-half 
inches deep, with a rich pastry. There must be no break 
in the pastry. Then fill the dish to the brim with 
peaches — ripe, luscious ones, that have been pared and 
broken — not cut — in half. Sugar generously, and leave 
in about six or eight of the peach pits — they give a certain 
flavor that only peach pits may impart. 

Cover the peaches with an unbroken upper crust of 
pastry; seal it tightly along the sides, so that none of the 
juices or aromas may escape. Bake in a slow oven until 
nearly brown — then sprinkle the top with powdered sugar, 
that will give a certain professional luster to the dish. 
After that finish the browning process. 

A cobbler containing a quart of peaches should bake 
for about one hour. 

Editor's Note: — Senator Smoot is not alone in his par- 
tiality toward peach cobbler. Back in the days before Vol- 
stead, famous cobblers were produced just as above with the 
addition of brandy, say a cup to a quart of peaches — but that, 
of course, was a long time ago. 

[71] 



THE STAG COOK BOOK 



xxrx 



Ray Long 

SHAD ROE 

Dip the roe well in melted butter or bacon fat, place 
under hot broiler flame, cooking for five minutes on each 
side. Then place in a greased baking dish, season with 
salt, tabasco, Worcestershire sauce and paprika. Dot over 
with a little more butter, or bacon fat, add a small quan- 
tity of hot water, cover closely and bake in an oven until 
tender — about fifteen minutes. This may be garnished 
with crisp bacon which should be cooked separately. 

Dessert 

Slice fresh pineapple, cover with sugar, and put on ice 
for several hours. Serve with lemon water ice. 



f72] 



WRITTEN FOR MEN BY MEN 



xxx 

Kenneth C. Beaton 

("K. C. B.") 

LOBSTER 

Get a couple of lobsters. 
Split and cleaned. 
And put in a pan. 
And dot each piece. 
With bits of butter. 
And put the pan. 
In a very hot oven. 
And broil ten minutes. 
And after that. 
Lift meat from shell. 
Onto heated plates. 
And serve with sauce. 
Made in a bowl. 
With a bit of mustard. 
Stirred in water. 
And a pinch of salt. 
And of paprika. 
Just a dash. 
And a scant teaspoon. 
Of Walnut catsup. 
And a tablespoon. 

[73] 



THE STAG COOK BOOK 

Of Worcestershire sauce. 
And mix them all. 
With half a cup. 
Of melted butter. 
That's just been heated. 
And not boiled. 
And serve it all. 
With a mess of potatoes. 
Baked or boiled. 
And boy, oh, boy! 
There is a dish. 
Fit for the gods! 
I thank you. 



[74] 



WRITTEN FOR MEN BY MEN 



XXXI 

John Harvey Kellogg, M. D. 

MACARONI WITH CHEESE 

1^2 cups macaroni 

i cup Cottage Cheese 

2 hard boiled eggs 

2 tb. butter 

2 cups milk or sufficient to cover the macaroni 

Boil the macaroni in salt water until tender. Place a 
layer of macaroni in the bottom of a baking dish, a layer 
of cheese (y 2 C), sliced hard boiled eggs, layer of maca- 
roni and the cheese — bits of butter are placed between the 
layers and on the top, sprinkle cracker, bread or PEP 
crumbs over the top, moisten with cream or bits of 
butter; sufficient milk is poured over to just cover the 
macaroni and bake in rather a slow oven for about forty- 
five minutes. 



SAVORY POTATOES 

I pint sliced potatoes 

]/2 small onion 

I tb. butter 

i cup water 

iVz teaspoon salt 

[75] 



THE STAG COOK BOOK 



Place the thin sliced potatoes in the bottom of a baking 
dish, slice the onion over this and add the remainder of 
the potatoes ; pour hot water over all with butter and salt. 
Bake in a slow oven two hours. 



[76] 



WRITTEN FOR MEN BY MEN 



XXXII 



Clare Briggs 



WAFFLES 

There is a simple but effective recipe for one of the 
kitchen's most wonderful products. 

1^4 CU P S flour 

3 teaspoons baking powder 

Y2. teaspoon salt 
1 cup milk 

Yolks of 2 eggs 

Whites of 2 " 
1 tablespoon melted butter 

Mix and sift dry ingredients; gradually add milk, then 
yolks of eggs, well beaten. Next the melted butter and 
last the whites of eggs, beaten stiff. Cook on a very hot 
and well-greased waffle iron and serve with maple syrup. 

Editor's Note: — President Harding favors creamed chipped 
beef as a dressing for waffles while Mr. Briggs is a staunch 
supporter of the sweet-tooth school. 

For those who like the sweet stuff this variation of plain 
maple syrup is worth trying: 

Put one half pound of strained honey in a double boiler, 
or a small pan placed in water. Heal: very slowly, adding a 
half pint of pure maple syrup with which has been previously 
mixed two teaspoons of powdered cinnamon and a dash of 
caraway. Heat and stir until thoroughly mixed — but do 
not boil. Serve warm. 

[77] 



THE STAG COOK BOOK 



XXXIII 



Edward IV. Bok 

ASPARAGUS 

The food I like? 
The dishes I really crave ? 

The things off which I would dine every day of my life ? 
I never see them. I never have them. 
Why? 

Because Mrs. Bok says there is not a digestible dish 
amongst them. 

But I often think of them, — wistfully, oh, so wistfully ! 
Here they are: 

Soft-shell crabs, done in hot olive oil; or hard-shell 
crabs; deviled. 

Lobster with mayonnaise. 

Filet Mignon : panned in? brown butter. 

Veal loaf. 

Roast pork tenderloin. 

Fried eels. 

Sausages ; never had enough ; ditto scrapple i 

Currants with a hot roll lightly wound through them. 

Hot fresh doughnuts. 

French pancakes of a thinness like unto gauze. 

Strong black coffee. 

Chocolate meringue glace. 

But as I never had the good fortune ten know the above 

[78] 



WRITTEN FOR MEN BY MEN 

foods at first hand, I cannot well give you the recipes for 
them. 

Perhaps you might like to know my favorite way of 
serving asparagus in my home, Dutch fashion, as I re- 
member it in my native land of The Netherlands. 

The asparagus bunches are placed in a double boiler 
upright, the tips being above the water, and thus cooked 
by steam. Passed at table, with the asparagus, is hard- 
boiled egg, put through a ricer, a small quantity of finely 
ground nutmeg and a dish of hot, melted butter. It 
always has to be explained to guests, but once the intro- 
duction is over the convert is made! 



[79] 



THE STAG COOK BOOK 



XXXIV 



Charles Hanson Towne 



CORN PUDDING 

There is no dish I like better than a Corn Pudding 
made just like this; 

2 cups of grated corn 

5^2 cup of milk 

y 2 cup of cream 
i tablespoonful of flour 

y 2 tablespoonful of salt 
I teaspoonful of sugar 
i tablespoonful of butter 
A pinch of baking powder 

Cook for a half hour and serve immediately. It is brown 
on the top, and in a deep dish it is the most succulent 
course a man could wish for. I want others to share it 
with me. I wish I could give a party every night with 
this as the piece-de-resistance ! 



Editor's Note: — In speaking of the origin of this dish 
Mr. Towne says that it was "first made by my wonderful 
colored housekeeper, Hattie Jefferson." 

[80] 



WRITTEN FOR MEN BY MEN 



XXXV 

Jerome D. Kern 

TERRAPIN 

My favorite dish is Stewed Terrapin and my recipe 
follows : 

Cut the boiled calves' liver into moderate sized pieces 
and put into stew pan with sufficient fresh butter to stew 
it well. 

In another pan make a sauce of pre-Prohibition Sherry 
or Madeira, flavored with the beaten yolk of one egg, 
powdered nutmeg and mace, a pinch of Cayenne pepper, 
salt to taste, enlivened with large lump of butter. 

If pre-Prohibition Sherry is not available, names and 
addresses of seventy-one bootleggers can be supplied. 

Stir sauce well, and just before it comes to a boil, take 
it off the fire. 

Use three or four hard-boiled hens' eggs to pinch hit 
for turtle's eggs and send to the table piping hot in chafing 
dish. 

IMPORTANT: Serve the sauce separately. The ter- 
rapin is frequently ignored by those who prefer the flavor 
of the sherry. I am one of them. 



[81] 



THE STAG COOK BOOK 



XXXVI 



Daniel JVillard 



COTTAGE PUDDING 

One tablespoon butter 

One cup sugar 

Two eggs 

Half cup milk 

One large teaspoon baking powder 

One and a half cups flour 

Bake in a square tin and serve with strawberry sauce. 



STRAWBERRY SAUCE 

One large tablespoon of butter beaten to a cream. Add 
gradually one and a half cups powdered sugar and the 
beaten white of one egg. Beat till very light and just 
before serving add one pint of strawberries which have 
been cut in small pieces. 



[82] 



WRITTEN FOR MEN BY MEN 



XXXVII 



Houdini 



SCALLOPED MUSHROOMS AND DEVILED 
EGGS 

The Mushroom Dish 

Choose for this purpose fine firm ones. Pick, wash, 
wipe and peel — then lay them in a deep pudding dish 
well buttered. Season them with pepper and salt, and 
add a little onion. Sprinkle each layer with rolled bread 
crumbs, dot with small pieces of butter and proceed in 
this way until dish is full, having the top layer of bread 
crumbs. Bake in a moderate oven. 

The Eggs 

Boil the eggs hard. Remove shells and cut eggs in 
half, slicing a bit off the ends to make them stand up- 
right. Extract yolks and rub them to a smooth paste 
with melted butter, cayenne pepper, a touch of mustard 
and a dash of vinegar. Fill the hollowed whites with 
this and send to table upon a bed of chopped lettuce or 
water cress, seasoned with pepper, salt, vinegar and a 
little sugar. 



[83] 



THE STAG COOK BOOK 



XXXVIII 

Charles P. Steinmetz 

MEAT LOAF 

I have been consulted about very many things, but this 
is the first time I have been consulted on gastronomical 
matters. But I give herewith, from my camping experi- 
ence, the following favorite dish of mine: 

Beef, veal, and pork (sirloin steak and chops), T /z pound 
each. Cut off the bones and the fat from the beef and 
veal, leaving the fat on the pork. Then pass all three 
through the meat grinder, chopping fairly fine. Add two 
complete raw eggs and some finely sliced bacon (Beechnut 
bacon, cut in pieces about I inch square) and mix every- 
thing together thoroughly, adding the proper amount of 
salt and pepper and if available some celery salt. Form 
into the shape of a round loaf. 

In a cast iron or cast aluminum frying pan (that is a 
pan of sufficiently heavy metal to well distribute the heat 
and guard against local burning) melt some butter, then 
put the loaf in the melted butter and cover the pan. Heat 
on a very low fire, turning over after some time, and 
continue for a long time, until very thoroughly cooked 
through. Add butter once or twice whemabsorbed. Then 
uncover and greatly raise the fire, turning over after a 
little while so as to brown both sides, 

[8 4 ] 



WRITTEN FOR MEN BY MEN 

Then take out the loaf and put it on a warm platter 
or plate. Now pour a cup of cream or rich milk into 
the pan, stir until the sediment in the pan is dissolved, and 
heat until you get a good brown gravy. Pour this over 
the loaf and serve with boiled mealy potatoes. What is 
left over can be eaten cold, sliced and served on buttered 
toast. 



[8 5 ] 



THE STAG COOK BOOK 



XXXIX 



Charlie Chaplin 

STEAK AND KIDNEY PIE 

This is how I do it: 

Get 2 pounds lean steak 
I beef kidney 
I small onion. 

Cut the steak and kidney into two inch pieces. Flour 
them. Add pepper and salt to taste. Line a deep pie 
dish with rich pie crust after having buttered dish. Put 
inverted egg cup in center. Fill with meat and finely 
chopped onion. Add water almost to top of dish. Roll 
pastry half inch thick and cover all. Make several small 
holes in pastry to permit steam to escape. Bake three hours 
in moderate oven. EAT. 



Editor's Note: — Steak and kidney pie is a favorite with 
many beside the great film comedian. Interesting variations 
of Mr. Chaplin's recipe are: 

Lamb kidney instead of the beef kidney. 

Top crust only. 

Fry the meat chunks before putting them into the pie. 

[86] 



WRITTEN FOR MEN BY MEN 



XL 



Dr. Frank Crane 



ROUND STEAK 

Somebody named Johnson, a name with most excellent 
vibrations, writes me and says that in spite of rumors he 
has heard, to the effect that I have a hired hand or two 
to write my stuff, he believes that I honestly wrote all 
by myself an article which appeared some time ago over 
my name, in which I stated I could cook round steak 
so that it would taste as good as fried chicken and be as 
tender. 

"If you are not bluffing," he says, "you could do a 
world of good to many housekeepers and stag clubs if 
you would print your recipe. The writer has worn the 
outer coat of enamel off his teeth in a vain attempt to 
make himself believe that round steak is as tender as 
chicken. Give us a hand, pal." 

Hence, being called, I lay my cards down, face up, 
on the table, to wit, namely and as follows: 

Have the butcher cut you a round steak thin. A 
little thicker than a lead pencil. He will insist on cutting 
it thicker, saying it will be juicier and so on. Draw your 
revolver and compel him to obey you. Don't have the 
steak too thick. 

After cutting the steak from the piece, have him separate 

[87] 



THE STAG COOK BOOK 



it into portions, each about the size of your hand. Don't 
try to cook the steak all in one piece. It must be in small 
sections, just as fried chicken is best when each joint is 
cooked separately. 

Have the butcher then take hi9 sharp knife (which is 
much better for the purpose than any knife you have at 
home, because he knows the art of sharpening and you 
don't), and criss-cross each piece, on both sides, don't 
forget. So that each piece will be in tatters, almost ready 
to fall apart. 

Put in the frying pan plenty of good sweet lard. Don't 
use butter. It will burn. Don't fry in deep fat, as with 
doughnuts, but plenty of fat, as with fried chicken. 

Rub each portion of the raw steak in flour. Rub it 
in good. Drop into the hot skillet. Cover it with lid. 
Keep covered. This cooks it through and makes it tender. 

Fry till a golden brown, turning once in a while. You 
notice the process is exactly as with fried chicken, Southern 
style. 

After you lift out the meat, put in the flour, let it 
scorch a bit, then pour water and milk mixed into the 
hot grease and meat particles left in the skillet. Just how 
much, you will have to find out by experiment. Let it boil 
up and boil down, keep stirring, until you have gravy 
of the right consistency. Flavor according to taste, with 
salt and pepper, before cooking. If the result is not good 
it is because you have not followed directions. 

Round steak not only is cheap, but it is all good meat, 
with the minimum of waste, and properly cooked it 
TASTES better than any part of the beef. 
[88] 



WRITTEN FOR MEN BY MEN 



XLI 



Robert H. Davis 

CREAM SAUCE A LA WORCESTERSHIRE 

This incomparable concoction is to be united in the 
bonds of holy wedlock with a piece of fried ham, the cere- 
mony to be solemnized on a hot rasher, hooded. 

Select a thick slice of mild cured ham, fry it in its own 
fat in a hot skillet until both sides show a golden brown. 
Place in a large cooking spoon one spoonful of Worcester- 
shire sauce, and one heaping tablespoon of rich cream. 
Set the cooking spoon in frying pan beside ham until 
Worcestershire and cream become warm, adding a few 
drops of ham fat while the sauce is heating. Complete 
the perfect union on the rasher by pouring the sauce over 
the ham. 

Put a Mendelssohn Wedding March disc on your 
phonograph and conclude the honeymoon at the table. 



Editor's Note: — This sauce was created by Mr. Davis at 
a breakfast given at the Wyandanch Club, Long Island, by 
Mr. Charles R. Flint to Admiral Guy Gaunt of the British 
Navy and Irvin S. Cobb of the United States of America 
in 1915. 

[89] 



THE STAG COOK BOOK 



XLII 



John A. JDix 



FRIED TROUT 

For my favorite dish — unhesitatingly — baked beans and 
pork, country style. 

As to my favorite recipe, that requires many condi- 
ments, among others a mountain trout stream; the in- 
spiration of the odor of the woods; the vigor of early 
morning and the pursuit. The requirements, just enough 
trout plus a few. From the pack basket take a piece of 
pork or bacon, fry well in a skillet over a carefully laid 
fire. Prepare the fish and roll well in fine bread crumbs 
seasoned with salt and pepper. When the fish are done 
a golden brown remove from the skillet and partake in 
the aboriginal manner, eating from the fingers. Kings 
could do no more. 



[90] 



WRITTEN FOR MEN BY MEN 



XLIII 

Guy Bates Post 

LAMB CURRY A LA "OMAR, THE 
TENTMAKER" 

I onion (diced) 
i cup of stock 
^2 cup of rice water 

1 cup of potatoes, which have been previously boiled 

and diced 

2 cups of lamb, cold roast preferred, and cut into the 

size of dominoes 
2 tablespoons of Curry Powder (Cross and Blackwells, 
or other imported — never domestic) 
Zest of one lemon 
Salt to taste 

Give me the above ingredients, and I will make you 
the meat dish which, above all others, is, to my way of 
thinking, the most savory and delicious. Eight years ago, 
when I was first playing "Omar, the Tentmaker," I be- 
came acquainted with various members of the Persian 
Embassy, who were especially interested in the play be- 
cause of its Persian locale, and it was while dining in the 
home of one of these gentlemen that I first became initi- 
ated to lamb curry — that is, lamb curry as it really should 
be cooked ! Begging the recipe from my host, it has ever 
since been the favorite piece de resistance in my home. 

[91] 



THE STAG COOK BOOK 

First of all you brown the onion in olive oil in a deep 
pan; then add the stock, rice-water, salt and curry powder; 
the latter having been mixed with a little of the rice- 
water to insure a smooth sauce. Simmer slowly till the 
oil and curry float in dark blobs, add the lamb, and con- 
tinue simmering and stirring until just before serving, 
when the lemon juice should be dripped in. 

Lamb curry should always be served with hot rice, 
taking on your fork equal portions of both, increasing the 
amount of rice in case you find the curry too hot. Never 
drink water with curry, as it intensifies the burning sen- 
sation. The amount of curry powder used in the above 
recipe can be increased or decreased according to the in- 
dividual taste. Cold cooked shrimps, lobster, veal or 
chicken may be used in place of lamb; but never beef. 
Personally I find that lamb produces the finest curry dish. 



[92] 



WRITTEN FOR MEN BY MEN 



XLIV 

Dr. Don Rafael H. Elizalde 

(Minister from Ecuador) 

SANCOCHO 

Four pounds of loin beef cut into two-inch squares. 

Eight good-sized potatoes. 

Five or six ears of green corn, broken in lengths of 
two inches. 

Water sufficient to make the amount of soup required. 

Boil until the beef is tender, with the potatoes, then add 
the corn and cook until done. 

Onions — 

Slice thin three large onions — boil for half an hour, 
drain and cool. Then pour olive oil over them. 

Banana Paste — 

One quart of milk in a double boiler ; add two heaping 
tablespoonsful of banana flour mixed in a little milk to 
a smooth paste, and cook from half hour to an hour. 

How to Serve — 

Strain the soup through a colander and serve in a 
tureen, placing meat, potatoes, corn, onions and banana 

[93] 



THE STAG COOK BOOK 

paste in separate, individual dishes from which each per- 
son may help themselves. 

(In South America the yucca and plantains are used 
in this dish.) 

YAPINGACHO 

Make potato cakes by the ordinary recipe, but before 
shaping them place a piece of cream cheese the size of 
a walnut in the center of each; then fry brown in very 
little fat. 
Sauce — 

One quart of milk and one half pound of peanuts 
ground fine; boil until thick, seasoning with salt, paprika 
and butter. 

Serve the potato cakes with fried eggs» and pour the 
sauce over both. 



[94] 



WRITTEN FOR MEN BY MEN 



XLV 



Bide Dudley 

TOMATO SOP 

Slice firm, ripe tomatoes ; roll in flour and fry in equal 
parts of lard and butter until brown on both sides. Re- 
move several slices to a platter, stir those remaining with 
flour and small lumps of butter: then thicken with milk 
and season to taste. 

Sop with bread or toast. 



Editor's Note:— This is good. But in the interest of the 
culinary art it should be stated that the flour, and not the 
milk, is the thickening agent. 

Try it — you'll thank the author of "tomato sop." 

[95] 



THE STAG COOK BOOK 



XLVI 

Jf^illiam Hale Thompson 

(Mayor of Chicago) 

ROAST BEEF 

My favorite food is Roast Beef, rare, or a good Ameri- 
can sirloin steak, which, I take it, are so simple to prepare 
that they need no recipe. 

Suggestions: 

i. Stand your roast on two or three thin slices of bacon 
— not too fat. 

2. On the top of the roast lay three or four thin slices 
of lemon — particularly if you like the "outside cut." 

3. If your steak looks a bit fresh rub with lemon juice 
(both sides) and allow to stand several hours before broil- 
ing or frying. Don't be frightened if it turns a bit black 
— be glad. 

4. Pan may be rubbed with garlic. 

5. Steaks should be thick, particularly if you broil. 



[96] 



WRITTEN FOR MEN BY MEN 



XLVII 



Booth Tarkington 



CORN FLAKES 

My favorite dish is corn flakes. They should be placed 
in a saucer or hollow dish, then lifted in both hands and 
rolled for a moment, then dropped back into the dish. 
After that an indefinite quantity of cream should be 
poured upon them. They should be eaten with a spoon. 
I don't know how to prepare anything else for the table. 
I think the best Kennebunkport manner of steaming clams 
is as follows: 

A bushel of clams 

4 dozen lobsters 

4 dozen ears of sweet corn 

4 dozen sweet potatoes 

4 dozen eggs 

A cartload of seaweed, a bonfire burning for six hours 
on rocks, then swept away ; the lobsters, clams, etc., placed 
in the seaweed, and the seaweed on the hot rocks and 
covered with BBB canvas. Allow to steam until screams 
of distress issue from the seaweed; then be careful what 
you eat! 



[97] 



THE STAG COOK BOOK 



XLVIII 

T. A. Dorgan 

CHILI CON CARNE 
Comes through with a natural 

What is my favorite filler for the feed bag? Well, I'll 
be on the square with my answer. . . . It's Chili con 
Carne. 

I might have said Terrapin Maryland, or some other 
Ritzy dish, but thought I'd better come with a natural. 

I'll play Chili con Carne and tamales as they are served 
in California (where I was born) against any dish I've 
ever forked over. 

Recipe 

Cut, say", two pounds of good beef in small pieces the 
size of the first finger joint. Add some of the chopped 
fat, mix and salt. 

Put two tablespoonsful of lard in a deep pot and heat. 
To this add a chopped onion. When the onion is about 
half cooked add the meat. Stir well until the meat has 
boiled down in its juice. When it starts to fry add about 
one and a half pints of hot water, three tablespoonsful of 
Gebhardt's Eagle Chili Powder and a few buttons of 
chopped garlic. Simmer and stir well until the meat is 
tender. 

[98] 



WRITTENi FOR, MEN BY MEN 



XLIX 

William De Leftwich Dodge 

RAGOUT DE MOUTON 

I think my favorite dish is "Ragout de Mouton," or, 
I would say, the one I cook the best. 

The way it's done is this: 

Cut up lamb in small pieces and fry it in a frying pan. 
Slice three or four carrots and onions and fry them with 
it. When these are nicely browned, put into a pot, cover 
with water, and let boil slowly for an hour. Then put 
in a few potatoes and turnips (cut up in small pieces), 
and boil until done. Season as you see fit. 



[99] 



THE STAG COOK BOOK 



Montague Glass 

BOUILLEBAISSE 

Bouillebaisse is my favorite dish. I make it according* to 
the recipe of Valentine Blanc, our cook in Nice, where 
we lived some years ago. Valentine could neither read 
nor write, nor could a story tell, but her Bouillebaisse 
was ever so much better than that they make in Mar- 
seilles (and I venture to say in Thackeray's old restaurant 
either). 

Melt about a half pound of butter in a sauce pan. 
I'm aware that in Marseilles they use oil, but Valentine 
used butter. Don't let the butter burn. Have ready two 
large chopped onions — i. e. — onions chopped fine, and two 
"dents" of garlic also chopped fine. 

Cook these in the butter until tender and without burn- 
ing. Have ready three perch and one haddock. That is to 
say: cut off the heads and tails. Some people use eels in- 
stead of haddock. I detest eels. Cut into a large saucepan 
the heads and tails of the fish with about a quart of water 
and let simmer until well cooked, say about half an hour. 
Strain out the heads and tails and give them to the cat. 

Add the cooked onions and garlic, — butter and all — to 
the strained bouillion from the heads and tails and allow 
to simmer for half an hour more, after seasoning to taste 
[ioo] 



WRITTEN FOR MEN BY MEN 

with salt and white pepper. Add about a gill of dry 
white wine of any variety, — Chablis, Cotes du Rhone oi> 
what not, — the cheaper the wine the better. Now take* 
two smallish lobsters, alive, and if you have the heart, cut 
them into segments and take off the claws and cut them} 
into segments. Cook the massacred lobster for about aj. 
quarter of an hour in the liquid or liquor or bouillon above* 
described and add a saltspoonful of dried Spanish saffron, 
while the whole is cooking together. If you can get mus- 
sels, cook also with the entire mess, a dozen or so, — in their 
shells if the shells be well scrubbed in advance. Some- 
where in this process add about a tablespoonf ul of chopped 
parsley. Last of all, add the fish cut into convenient 
slices rather small, and let cook until done, but not long 
enough so that the fish becomes disintegrated. Remember 
there ought to be no violent boiling. 

Before serving strain off most of the liquor and serve 
it first as soup with a slice of toast in the bottom of the 
plate. If the toast has been fried in advance in good 
butter, so much the better, but this is not necessary. Then 
eat all the solid part except the shells and sop up all the 
remaining gravy with bread, using your fmger9 to do the 
job and not a fork. Don't leave a bit of it. 

There ought to be enough of this stew for four people, 
but I can usually manage the whole thing myself with 
only the slightest assistance from my wife. Wine ought to 
be drunk with the meal, a good Burgundy Beaune or 
Chambertin. Later one should eat an artichoke cold 
vinaigrette, then some fruit and cheese and two small cups 
of well made black coffee. After this it is necessary to 

[IOI] 



THE STAG COOK BOOK 

smoke a Corona Corona not too mild, and drink a small 
glass of Cointreau Sec. The bread ought to be Pain 
Riche in flutes. The fruit may be fresh apricots, a few 
green almonds and perhaps some green gages. 

The coffee ought to be drunk and the cigar smoked 
in the garden which must be in the vicinity of Mount 
Boron on the Grande Corniche or it may be in the Pare 
imperial. God ought to be thanked either during or 
after the meal, and when it becomes a little too cold in the 
garden a fire should be built in the small living room and 
one should read Somerville & Ross' Recollections of an 
Irish R. M., or Neil Lyon's Simple Simon, or Belloc's 
Path to Rome, or Richard Ford's Gatherings from Spain 
until bedtime. 

Repeat the whole process on the following Friday. 

God ! How hungry I am. 



[102] 



WRITTEN FOR MEN BY MEN 



LI 



John Philip Sousa 

PELOTAS A LA PORTUGUESE 

"This serves from six to eight people and is my 
favorite dish." 

One quart can of tomatoes. Put in kettle on top of 
stove, simmer or let boil slowly for one and a half hours. 
Add pepper, salt, two onions cut in fine slices, four all- 
spice and four cloves. The cloves and allspice to be 
added after it starts to boil. After two and a half hours 



Two pounds chopped beef ; add one onion, chopped fine, 
two cups bread crumbs, a little parsley, salt and pepper. 
Make into meat balls about the size of a plum. Put into 
sauce and boil one and one-half hours slowly. This makes 
fully three hours' slow boiling for the sauce. 

SPAGHETTI 

Use a package or a pound of spaghetti; not macaroni. 
Have a large pot of boiling water with about one table- 
spoonful of salt. Slide the spaghetti into the water. 
Do not break it. Boil exactly twenty minutes. Must be 
tender, not tough nor doughy. 

[103] 



THE STAG COOK BOOK 

To sauce, add three bay leaves one hour before taking 
off the stove. 

Serve spaghetti on large platter, pouring tomato sauce 
over it. Serve pelotas on smaller platter, allowing a small 
quantity of sauce to remain on them. 

Serve grated Parmesan cheese on side. Use a piece of 
cheese to grate, not bottled cheese. 



[104] 



WRITTEN FOR MEN BY MEN 



LII 



Will Hays 



CHICKEN PILAU 
"Get a fat hen — the fatter the better/' 

Because this recipe comes from a Southern cook, there 
are no accurate measurements. 

Sam would always recommend a "fat hen" — "the fatter 
the better," and " 'nough rice and plenty of pepper." 

This I know : The chicken is cut up and boiled in the 
water until tender. Should be cooked in a good sized flat 
bottom kettle. When the chicken is tender there should 
be enough of the stock to come up well around it, but 
not to cover it. Then put in with the chicken about a 
scant pint of well washed rice. This should be stirred 
ONCE, Sam says, and allowed to steam slowly an hour. 
Use plenty of pepper to season and salt to taste. Each 
grain of rice should be fat and juicy. Successfully made 
it is delicious. 



Editor's Note: — The Chicken Pilau recommended by Mr. 
Hays is delicious. A variation perhaps equally good, may 
be had by substituting broken spaghetti, or vermicelli for- 
the rice. 



[ios] 



THE STAG COOK BOOK 



LIII 



Frank Ward O^Malley 

RUM-TUM-TIDDY 

— has the best Welsh rabbit backed off the stove* 



Take one country home in New Jersey. One dependa- 
ble apple-jack bootlegger. One cook who threatens to 
leave unless she can begin her nightly visits to her daugh- 
ter in the village as early as seven-thirty o'clock. 

Take three or four acquaintances who drop in for apple- 
jack cocktails just as your cook is about to put the steak 
on to broil. Then have your guests linger near the cock- 
tail shaker until you, your wife and especially your de- 
layed cook are approaching hysteria. 

"Why not stay," you now announce to your guests in 
desperation, "and we'll all make a rum-tum-tiddy ?" 

You now tell your grateful cook not to bother preparing 
a meal. You next take one flivver and hurriedly drive 
her to her daughter's in the village. Then you buy in 
the village one and one-half pounds of American cheese, 
one can of Campbell's Tomato Soup and a dozen bottles 
of beer — real beer, if you can get it, Volstead beer if you 
can't. 

NOW:— 

Pry your guests away from the cocktail shaker and shoo 
[106] 



WRITTEN FOR MEN BY MEN 

them into the kitchen. Everybody from this on who is 
not occupied in mincing the green pepper in a chopping 
bowl is busy cutting the American cheese into cubes about 
an inch square. Everybody else beats two fresh eggs — 
whites and yolks together. 

Drop a lump of butter into a saucepan to prevent 
"sticking." Begin to melt the pound and one half of 
diced cheese in the saucepan, stirring the lumps to prevent 
burning. When the cheese is fairly well melted, pour 
into it the can of tomato soup and the two beaten eggs. 
Stir into the mixture about one-third of a bottle of beer. 
Pour in also the finely chopped green pepper and continue 
stirring until smooth. 

Have hot dinner plates ready, each plate containing a 
large slice of hot, unbuttered toast. Place at least one 
bottle of beer — two if it's real — beside each plate. 

Holler "Ready, people!" and pour on each piece of 
toast enough of the contents of the saucepan to form a 
pinkish overflow of rum-tum-tiddy on the plate. 

That's all — except to shake 'em up a semi-final cocktail 
and then start right back to the village in the flivver 
for another pound and one half of cheese, another pepper 
and more beer to make another immediately when the first 
rum-tum-tiddy is gone. One calls for two, often three. 

Serve preferably in the kitchen. Serve in any room far 
from the kitchen if you want leg work exercise. Eat until 
gorged. 



[107] 



THE STAG COOK BOOK 



liv 



Charles Evans Hughes 

CORN BREAD 

"My favorite dish is corn bread and honey" 

And here is a recipe for corn bread: 

2 cups of flour 

3 cups of cornmeal 

4 heaping teaspoonsful of baking powder 
2 eggs well beaten 

i teaspoonful salt 

i tablespoonful sugar 

1 pint of milk 

2 tablespoonsful of melted butter 

Mix the meal and flour, baking powder, salt and sugar. 
Beat the eggs until they are light, then add the eggs and 
milk to the meal. Beat to a light smooth consistency 
and add the melted butter. Bake in a shallow pan 
(greased) for about twenty-five minutes. 

Eat while hot and use plenty of fresh butter and honey. 



Editor's Note: — There is a white meal and a yellow. Ex- 
pert appraisers of corn bread have said that the white meal 
is preferable. Still the golden hue of a pan of hot corn bread 
is not to be passed up lightly. 

[io8] 



WRITTEN FOR MEN BY MEN 



LV 



Weaker Prichard Eaton 

MINCE-PIE 

"Made any other way it's not mince-pie." 

My favorite dish, and the best food in the world, is King 
Canute Pudding, but I shall not tell anybody how to 
make it, because that is a family secret. I am descended 
from Canute, and this was the pudding he ate and which 
made him feel so good that he went out and bade the tide 
to cease rising. The recipe is handed down in each 
generation of my tribe. It was my paternal grandmother 
who had it to pass on. She lived to be ninety-nine, thanks 
to her own wonderful cooking and a cantankerous dis- 
position. Her mince-pie was a thing to write sonnets 
about. It was the second best food in the world. For 
ten years after I went to New York I lived on the mem- 
ory of that pie and shuddered at the horrendous messes 
masquerading under the same name which were offered 
to me. 

Then I moved back to New England and, achieved a 
cook who, by the grace of God and the right bringing 
up could make a pie like it. For six years I knew happi- 
ness again. Then we lost Kate, the incomparable. My 
only hope was my wife and that was a feeble hope, in- 

[109] 



THE STAG COOK BOOK 

deed. She was born not in the pie belt, but in New York. 
She had never cooked. She was an Episcopalian. I ap- 
proached the next Thanksgiving breakfast with gloomy 
forebodings. 

But lo, a miracle. It was an orthodox mince-pie. It 
was Katie's mince-pie. It was grandmother's mince-pie — 
in short, it was mince-pie. Here is the way to make it. 
Made any other way it's not mince-pie. 

The Filling 

Affix the grinder firmly to the edge of the table. What 
the palette is to the artist so is the grinder to the creator 
of mince meat. Then pass the following ingredients 
through the grinder, and from thence into a large kettle 
and let the latter and its glorious contents simmer on the 
stove for the best part of a morning, stirring them fre- 
quently so that no portion shall be neglected and fail to 
come into close union with the soothing heat that mellows 
all into one fragrant whole. Take from the stove and 
store in stone crocks or glass jars in the dark, and keep 
tightly covered. When about to fashion a pie take out 
as much of the meat as you desire, wet it with boiled 
cider and with fresh cider, too, if possible, so that it is 
not stiff, and bake between the crusts whose ingredients 
are given below. Eat hot with soft dairy cheese and 
coffee. 

The meat should be thoroughly boiled the day before 
the mince meat is made, and the cider should be boiled 
down at home — not bought — until it is the consistency of 
[no] 



WRITTEN FOR MEN BY MEN 

molasses. Boil enough to last all winter and put in glass 
jars. Now, alas, that no liquors may be had, it is well to 
bottle fresh cider and put it away where it is cool, so 
that with luck it may stili be fresh when in March you 
scrape the last jar for the last pie. Only use care when 
it is opened, or perchance it will be the ceiling rather 
than the pie which will be wet down. 

5 cups cooked beef; after grinding 
2y 2 " suet 
IV2. " apples 
3 " cider 
Y2 cup vinegar 
1 cup molasses 
5 cups sugar 

24 pound citron 
iy 2 pounds raisins 
1^2 " small raisins (not to be put through grinder) 

salt to taste 

juice and rind of 2 lemons 

juice and rind of 2 oranges 

1 tablespoon mace and nutmeg (or 2 nutmegs grated) 

2 tablespoons each of cinnamon, cloves and allspice 

2 " lemon extract 
1 teaspoon almond extract 

3 cups liquor in which beef was cooked 

If you have wine or brandy put in a cupful after taking 
from the fire. 

The Crust 

2 cups pastry flour sifted with teaspoon salt. 
T /z cup (generous) of lard mixed in with fingertips till 
the combination is fine and powdery. 

Em] 



THE STAG COOK BOOK 



Wet with cold water, mixing with knife, and cutting, 
till you can take the dough from the bowl without sticking 
to it. Divide in half, pat gently on floured marble slab, 
and roll out thin. Lift lower crust carefully, place in tin 
and trim off edges. Roll out from trimmings a strip half 
an inch wide and place on top of lower crust, around edge, 
first wetting edge slightly with cold water. Put in filling, 
place upper crust on top, first wetting edge of rim slightly 
with cold water, press together with tines of fork and 
trim off overhanging of upper crust. Prick a large T. M. 
on the top crust and bake in hot oven till brown. 

(The T. M. stands for " 'Tis Mince" to distinguish it 
from the pies labeled T. M. for " 'Tain't Mince.") 



[112] 



WRITTEN FOR MEN BY MEN 



LVI 



TV. T. Benda 



POLISH SPECIALTIES 

In following my Polish recipes you will find a prac- 
tical use for the geometry of your school days. If you 
have forgotten the axioms of Euclid, take a correspondence 
course before attempting "Ushka." 

It is simple when you finally master it — and marvel- 
ously good. Don't forget the line B D. Everything 
hinges on that. 

BARSHCK WITH USHKA 
Barshck. {Or Polish Beet Soup) 

If you are brave, put three large beets, peeled and quar- 
tered into a glass jar and pour on them a quart of water, 
add a teaspoonful of salt and a slice of rye bread. Keep 
this in a warm place for about five days. There will 
form a sour red-wine-like juice with a whitish mold skin 
on the top. Don't lose your courage, take this skin off 
and pour off the juice. 

Then prepare a quart of beef, pork and vegetable stock 
and while it is hot add to it all your beet juice and a 
bottle of cream which you previously have beaten with a 
teaspoonful of flour. Heat and stir it all just to boiling 

[113] 



THE STAG COOK BOOK 

point, but do not let it boil, and serve with or without 
"Ushka" which are fully described in the next paragraph. 



Ushka 

Barshck is really not complete without "Ushka," and 
as they are a very simple dish to prepare you should never 
omit them. 

To make "Ushka" prepare first a fine hash of half a 
pound of boiled pork and beef with one small onion, a 
tablespoonful of flour, salt and pepper. 



*■»■< 



A 



6 




£)U 



e 



Make white sauce of butter and flour and a little water, 
mix this with your hash, let it stew for a while, then add 
one raw egg and stir it madly. 

Now mix a dough, using half a quart of flour, one 
egg, two tablespoonfuls of water, half a teaspoonful of 

[»4] 



WRITTEN FOR MEN BY MEN 



salt, and butter of the size of a walnut. Knead this vig- 
orously for half an hour, or until it is quite smooth. 




Roll the dough out into a sheet }£ of an inch thick 
and cut it into 2J/2 inch squares. Put on each dough 




square a teaspoonful of your hash; fold them diagonally 
along the line BD (Fig. 1) and press the edges together, 
thus joining the edge AB unto the edge CB and AD 

[US] 



THE STAG COOK BOOK 

unto CD. You will thus obtain the right angle triangle 
ABD (Fig. 2) with the hash inside. Now curve this 



0n7W7) 




triangle along the hypotenuse BD until the 45 degree 
corner D meets the 45 degree corner B. Let these two 

[n6] 



WRITTEN FOR MEN BY MEN 

corners overlap a little and press them together until they 
stick. The shape resulting from this operation resembles 
a pig's ear, as depicted in Figure 3. 

Now put these pig's ears or Ushka into boiling water ; 
they will sink, but that should not distress you. Leave 
them there until they come to the surface. Put the Ushka 
on a platter and pour on them brown butter with crumbs 
and serve them as a side dish with barshck. 

BURACHKI 
{Beets a la Polonaise) 

Boil eight little beets, skin them and chop them (not 
too fine). 

Take one level tablespoonful of butter, and one table- 
spoonful of flour. Brown it until it is of a golden hue. 
Stir into this half a cupful of vinegar, two tablespoonsful 
of sugar, half a teaspoonful of salt and a little pepper. 
Bring it to boiling, then mix this with your beets. 



[»7] 



THE STAG COOK BOOK 



LVII 



Captain Edward A. Salisbury 

SAUCE FOR SPAGHETTI 

This sauce for spaghetti is a real Italian mixture — 
and wonderful. This is how I learned to make it in 
Italy: 

Place in a cup or bowl a half teacup full of dried 
mushrooms. Pour boiling water over them and just let 
them stand until thoroughly softened, say — about a half 
hour. 

In the meantime cover the bottom of your frying pan 
or skillet with butter or olive oil (I prefer the butter). 
Chop one big onion and cook slowly, stirring frequently. 
In another pan or kettle place two cans of tomatoes. Stew 
them for half an hour. Then make three small cakes 
of Hamburg steak or chopped beef and put them in to cook, 
with the onions. Cook thoroughly. Add at the same 
time the mushrooms which have been softened and chopped 
into fine particles. 

When the meat is cooked through mash the cakes up 
with a fork — mixing well with onions and mushrooms. 

Now add the stewed tomatoes and, in doing this, press 
them through a sieve or colander. Stir well. 

Place on back of stove and let steep for one hour after 
adding two teaspoons of Eagle Chili Powder (if available) 
[118] 



WRITTEN FOR MEN BY MEN 

bm— mnMinnwiwiriMMni^nwrMTiwiiii iwi ii Mii — — r ' *- ~~ 

or two teaspoons of Lea & Perrins sauce with five dis- 
solved cubes of beef or chicken bouillon. 



To cook the spaghetti, place it, unbroken, in well salted 
boiling water. Put it in end first. Boil exactly twenty- 
three minutes. Drain. Hold under cold water tap for 
a second or two and drain again. Keep warm on stove 
until served. This cold water treatment is important. 
It removes all gumminess and leaves the spaghetti in 
perfect condition. Use the imported spaghetti if available. 



EGGS A LA SALISBURY 

Here is a dish that is easy to make and delicious. 

I poach the desired number of eggs until they are just 
solid. Then I place them on hot, crisp toast, covering 
the eggs with beautifully done bacon. 

Over the lot, I pour hot cream until the eggs are 
floating. 

Salt, pepper and paprika to taste. 

Try this for breakfast. 



FISH A LA COMMODORE 

Say you are cooking a six pound bass or some similar 
fish — do it this way for a change: 

Rub the fish well with salt and pepper. Don't be afraid 

[119] 



THE STAG COOK BOOK 

to rub. Then open the flesh in three places and insert in 
each opening a clove of garlic. 

Next slice six large onions — six small green peppers — 
and six large tomatoes. Now take your Dutch oven or 
baking pan and cover the bottom with Mazola oil or olive 
oil — add a tablespoon of butter. 

When this is hot put in your fish and cover the fish 
with the sliced vegetables. Salt and pepper the vegetables. 

Cook until the vegetables are done or about one hour. 
Baste frequently to avoid scorching the vegetables. To the 
basting add two teaspoons of Lea & Perrins sauce and one- 
half wine glass of cooking Sherry when half done. 

When serving put plenty of juice and sauce on each 
portion and make them come back for more. This recipe 
can be used for many kinds of large fish. 



TO COOK TROUT 

Dip trout in beaten egg, salt and pepper. Roll in flour 
and drop into very hot and very deep Mazola oil. Re- 
move when golden brown. The trout will be perfectly 
free from oil and every bit of the delicate trout flavor will 
be sealed up inside. Try it! 



VENISON STEAK 

Venison steak is fairly poor steak at best. But there 
is one way to cook it that makes you forget all past 
[120] 



WRITTEN FOR MEN BY MEN 

experiences with venison. And remember this is really 
the only way to cook it that's worth a damn. 

Take the venison and strip out all of the white sinews 
that lay between the muscles or lean parts. Strip and cut 
this white part all away. Then cut your venison into 
small strips about the thickness of a finger. Now you are 
on your way. Beat up an egg or two and beat in a bit 
of salt and pepper. Dip your strips of venison in the 
egg, then roll them in flour. Fry in butter and serve 
immediately. 

Every hunter or guide who has tried this sticks to it. 
It's the one way to cook venison. 



GOOSE 



There is only one way for a man, or any one else, to 
cook a goose. Listen : Never pick a goose ! Just pull the 
skin right off — every inch of it. 

Then take a sharp knife and follow down the breast 
bone on both sides. Strip the breast meat clear away 
from both sides. Split each side of breast into two thin 
steaks (if large goose). 

Dip these steaks in beaten egg, salt and pepper. Roll 
in flour and fry over a medium fire. That's new to most 
folks for goose and it's going to give you a new idea about 
geese when you try it. 



[121] 



THE STAG COOK BOOK 



A MAYONNAISE AND A SALAD DRESSING 

Take yolks of two eggs, beat well and add slowly (drop 
at a time) olive oil. If your mixture is too thick lighten 
with dash of lemon or vinegar. 

Now into a half pint of this mayonnaise put three table- 
spoons of Chili sauce; three tablespoons of Blue Label 
Ketchup; one tablespoon of finely chopped pimento; one 
tablespoon of finely chopped blanched sweet peppers. 

To this add one-half teaspoon of salt — pepper and Hun- 
garian paprika to taste. 

Then add, slowly, Tarragon vinegar to taste — say about 
one and one-half tablespoons. 

Serve this on shrimps, lobster, lettuce or tomato salad. 



DUCKS AND LARGE FOWL 

Ducks, such as Mallard, Canvasback and Redhead, 
should be baked. If you once learn how to bake in a 
Dutch Oven you have found the secret of successful camp 
cookery. 

Take a Mallard, for instance. Rub it with salt and 
pepper (I might add here: pick 'em dry and keep 'em 
dry — no water near a duck!), then put an onion well 
up in the body cavity. Fill the remaining space with 
celery, wild or domestic. 

Get your oven, or Dutch oven, very hot before the 
duck goes in. Use no grease and no water — just your dry 
pan or oven. A big Mallard will cook perfectly in 
[122] 



WRITTEN FOR MEN BY MEN 

— ^i ■'■■—"■««—" — — — — — — -^ ■— 

twenty minutes. Do not open oven or take lid from 
Dutch oven after starting to cook. Serve with currant 
jelly. 



TEAL, PARTRIDGE AND SMALL FOWL 

Pick, without breaking the skin. Cut open the back 
and break out flat for grilling or broiling. Broil bone 
side to the fire for eight minutes. Souse frequently with 
melted butter. 

Turn and broil, flesh side to the fire, for four minutes, 
using more butter. Salt and pepper thoroughly at time 
of turning. 

Serve with currant jelly. 



BEANS 



Get a deep pot for beans. A heavy iron one is mighty 
good. 

Take a half pound of salt pork and cut it into very 
small pieces. Fry them until brown. 

Clean your beans and soak them for at least two hours 
— or more. Then boil the beans for two hours, after 
which add the pork and one can of Mexican Chili Sauce. 
If this is not available, make your own by frying with 
the salt pork : four tomatoes, three onions, two bell peppers 
and one red pepper, all chopped. 

Now you've got your mixture and after it's all together 

[123] 



THE STAG COOK BOOK 

put in six beef bouillon cubes; salt and pepper to taste. 
It's a good idea to have enough water in the pot so that 
when the beans are done a fine soup may be enjoyed before 
the beans are eaten. Altogether three to four hours of 
cooking is necessary for the best results with beans. 



ITALIAN RICE 

First, a word about cooking rice. Buy the best head 
rice. Wash it thoroughly, — six waters. Drop rice slowly 
into well salted, boiling water, and boil for twenty-three 
minutes. Drain off three-quarters of water and hold rice 
under cold water faucet for a moment; this will leave 
each grain firm and perfect. Drain thoroughly. 

Now the sauce. Place in your skillet olive oil to cover 
the bottom; also tablespoon of butter. Chop one large 
Spanish onion. Place it in the skillet and cook slowly. 
Stir often. 

After ten or fifteen minutes, a piece of white fish (sole 
preferred) about the size of your four fingers, from the 
palm down — see? When the onions are a golden color 
add one finely chopped clove of garlic. When fish is 
thoroughly cooked, mash it up with a fork and stir well. 
Now add one or two cans of tomatoes which have been 
stewing slowly for half an hour or more. Add them 
through a sieve and push with a spoon so as to get the 
thick part through. Mix well. 

Place this on the back of the stove where it will simmer 

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for one hour. Add a pinch of saffron or thyme — salt and 
pepper to taste. 

This sauce can be used for only one meal, as it sours 
after a few hours. Sauce should be applied by each person 
as desired until it's all gone. 



STEAK SAUCE 

Have a large platter very, very hot — really hot! 

Then the minute the steak is done, put it on the platter 
and work fast. Over the steak sprinkle a very little bit 
of dry English mustard. Then a squeeze or two of lemon. 
Now several thin slices of butter, a little Worcestershire 
sauce, salt, pepper and paprika. Rub all this in with a 
broad knife. Turn steak and repeat the operation. Now 
tip platter on edge and quickly whip the sauce into a froth, 
using a fork. Serve two or three tablespoons of sauce 
with each piece of steak. 



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THE STAG COOK BOOK 



LVIII 



Thomas H. Ince 

CHICKEN HALIBUT 

{Baked and with Parmesan} 

Boil some slices of halibut in court bouillon, lay in 
baking dish a border of potato croquette — either hard or 
shaped with hand. Have layer of bechamel on bottom of 
dish — then one of shredded fish, another layer of bechamel 
and one more of fish, finishing with the bechamel ; sprinkle 
with bread crumbs and grated Parmesan. Pour over a 
little butter and brown in the oven. 

With Parmesan. Prepare same and make solid paste 
by mixing together butter and Parmesan cheese with pinch 
paprika. Work well and roll out one-eighth inch thick. 
Cover last layer bechamel with this and brown in hot 
oven. 

Bechamel Sauce. Prepare roux of butter and flour, let 
cook few minutes while stirring — not allow to color — 
remove to slower fire and leave it to cook 15 minutes. 
Then dilute gradually with half boiled milk. 

ONION SOUP AU GRATIN 

Cut into small ]/% inch squares two medium onions, 
fry them in butter and add two dessert spoons flour and 

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moisten with two quarts of broth, adding bunch of parsley 
garnished with chervil, bay leaf and clove and garlic. 
Season with a little salt, pepper and some meat extract, 
boil for 20 minutes — then remove the bouquet — pour the 
soup over very thin slices of bread placed in a metal 
soup tureen in intervening layers of bread and cheese — 
Parmesan — finishing with the Parmesan and sprinkle a 
little over the top of the soup. Bake in hot oven or boil 
ten minutes and thicken with raw yolks of two eggs diluted 
in cream. 

RICE A LA MANHATTAN 

Chop two onions — fry in butter, add a pound of rice 
and beat together. When very hot, add enough broth to 
triple quantity — let boil and cook in slack oven for 20 
minutes. Add when done, six ounces grated Parmesan. 
Pour % of this into casserole, make hole in center and 
fill with shrimps and minced mushrooms; around sides 
lay fillet of sole, pour over lean Spanish sauce — reduced 
with essence of mushrooms — mix well and cover whole 
with remainder of rice — put in hot oven for fifteen min- 
utes and serve. 

Sauce: — 1 quart of stock — melt ^4 pound of butter — 
stir in same amount of flour — making clear pastes — add 
stock — brown slowly. 



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LIX 



George Ade 

"SCOLLOPED" OYSTERS 

If I must make a decision, I think I shall have to 
vote in favor of escalloped oysters. Back home we call 
them "scolloped." The restaurant and hotel article is 
not the real thing. The portions are stingy and the 
oysters are heated just enough to render them helpless 
and they lie embedded in some dry packing, evidently 
meant to be an article of food. Escalloped oysters, as 
prepared at home, came in a deep pan which had been 
subjected to great heat. The oysters were used with the 
greatest prodigality. They were cooked in cracker crumbs 
or corn meal and they were cooked until the delicious 
flavor of the bivalve had permeated all parts of the dish. 
Milk or cream and real country butter had been used 
unsparingly, so that the whole compound was moist and 
the seasoning had been well distributed, and the whole 
result was, in my opinion, a triumph. For some reason, 
the real "scolloped" oysters attain their perfection only 
when prepared by women past thirty years of age. 

I am not undertaking to give the recipe. Probably it 
is something secret — beyond the reach or comprehension of 
any man, but the dish itself is worthy of all the compli- 
mentary adjectives. 

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WRITTEN FOR MEN BY MEN 



Editor's Note : — Here is the way to do it — first butter the 
bottom and sides of a pan (deep) or baking dish, then cover 
the bottom with those little, round, old-fashioned oyster 
crackers, all crisp and salty. Next place a layer of oysters, 
fresh or cove. If you don't know what cove oysters are ask 
some one who was raised in the Middle West. Now a layer 
of crackers crushed; then more oysters and so on until the 
pan is full. Season each layer of oysters with salt and 
pepper. Put little bits of butter all over the cracker layers. 
Now fill the pan with milk and cream to which has been 
added a bit of the oyster liquor. Cover the top well with 
crushed crackers. Put a cover on the dish or pan and slip it 
into the oven. Some folks add a teaspoonful of Worcester- 
shire sauce to the milk and cream. Bake until the juices 
bubble up. Don't let too much of the moisture bake away. 
At the last minute take the cover off the dish and brown the 
top. 

The richer the cream and butter the better the result. 

The dish is" even better than Mr. Ade would lead you to 
believe, and it can be made by an amateur male cook — that's 
why Mr. Ade's contribution is printed in spite of the rank 
heresy to which he professes. 



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LX 



Lyman Abbott 

DEEP APPLE PIE 

Dr*. Lyman Abbott's favorite dish is a Deep Apple Pie, 
which is made like the deep fruit tarts so plentiful in 
England. 

Here is a thoroughly satisfactory way to make Dr. 
Abbott's specialty: Line a deep pie tin with a rich crust, 
fill with tart, juicy apples sliced very thin. Sprinkle 
sugar and a little cinnamon over them. Scatter bits of 
butter over the apples, about a tablespoonful in all. Also 
sprinkle with a tablespoonful of water. Use four or five 
tablespoonsful of sugar. Cover with top crust and bake 
slowly for a half, or perhaps three-quarters of an hour. 

For the real deep dish pie put the apples, sugar and 
butter (above proportions) in the individual deep dish 
and cover with top crust. Bake the same. The spices 
may be varied to taste. 



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WRITTEN FOR MEN BY MEN 



LXI 



Terry Ramsay e 

LETTUCE (a la Red Creek) 

In behalf of my favorite fodder, the tender leafling 
lettuce that's newly sprung in June, I am pleased to pre- 
sent a method of introducing it to the human system with 
a maximum effectiveness. 

Wilted Lettuce: — It is said that this dish comes to 
us from the Hessians. If this be treason let us make the 
most of it. 

Having obtained the lettuce, young and tender and 
fresh from the patch, plucked before it is yet headstrong, 
toss it into a bucket of cold water to crisp it. 

Repairing to the kitchen, place on the hot stove a 
skillet and heave into it a good sized cupful of chopped 
bacon. Let it fry thoroughly. Add a dessert spoonful 
of salt, a pinch of mustard, a couple of tablespoonsful 
of granulated sugar and good cider vinegar in quantity 
slightly in excess of the bacon fat. Let it simmer smartly 
until well blended. Meanwhile lay out the lettuce in 
noble heaps on the plates on which it is to be served. 
Chop up a handful of green onions, a bit of the tops will 
do no harm, and at the last moment stir them into the 
concoction in the skillet. 

While the whole is sizzling and boiling vigorously, pour 

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the mixture over the lettuce, using a spoon to apportion 
the nifty bits of bacon about, and serve forthwith. 

By this method one can take aboard amazing quantities 
of lettuce, which is most desirable in view of the fact 
that this gentle herb contributes strongly to the summer 
languor when taken in adequate quantities. 



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WRITTEN FOR MEN BY MEN 



LXII 



jR. JL. (Rube) Goldberg 

HASH 

All joking aside, my favorite dish is hash. 

I have never actually been in the kitchen to see hash 
pass through the various stages of its epicurean develop- 
ment, but I imagine hash is manufactured something like 
this: 

First the father must eat a big lunch, the mother must 
fill herself up on cake in the afternoon and the children 
must have spoiled stomachs. This condition of affairs 
ruins the evening meal completely and there is plenty of 
meat left over for hash the next day. 

The cook takes the beef or veal or whatever it is and 
throws it into the electric fan. The flying bits of meat 
are caught on ping pong rackets by experts and knocked 
back into a pot that contains a large quantity of mashed 
potatoes. Then the fire is lighted and the cook can go 
out to an afternoon movie. 

The beauty of hash is that, no matter how it tastes, 
you think it is all right. There is no standard flavor 
for hash. Hash is fundamentally accidental, so it has no 
traditions to live up to. 



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THE STAG COOK BOOK 



LXIII 



Channing Pollock 



CORN BREAD 

When I was young and sometimes went camping my 
favorite dish was corn bread. In those days, we always 
began proceedings by building a mud oven. Now I believe 
portable ovens are convenient and cheap. In any event, 
following is my recipe: 

2 cups of flour 

3 cups of cornmeal 

4 heaping teaspoonsful of baking powder 
2 eggs well beaten 

I teaspoonful of salt 

i tablespoonful of granulated sugar 

1 generous pint of milk 

2 tablespoonsful of melted crisco or lard 

Do not scald the cornmeal. 

Mix the meal with flour, baking powder, salt and sugar, 
beat the eggs until they are light, add the milk and eggs 
to the other ingredients. Beat the whole until it is smooth 
and light — about one minute. Finally adding the melted 
crisco or lard; pack into shallow, greased pan and bake 
in a hot oven for twenty-five minutes. 



[134] 



WRITTEN FOR MEN BY MEN 



LXIV 

Hussein Kahn Alai 

(Minister to the United States from Persia) 

CHIRIN POLOW 

Necessary materials: One pound of rice (Carolina rice 
is most suitable) ; one spring chicken; the peel of four 
oranges; four ounces of sugar; half a pound of salt; two 
grams of Spanish saffron; two ounces of almonds; half 
a pound of butter. 

Method of cooking the rice: If the dish is required 
for a luncheon at one o'clock, it will be necessary, the 
night before, to rinse the rice three times in water, rub- 
bing it each time with the palms of the hands. Change 
the water each time. 

Next soak the rice in tepid water, letting the water 
stand three inches over the rice. Pour the half pound of 
salt on the rice and let it stand until n a. m. of the 
next day. 

Into a two gallon caldron pour six quarts of water and 
let it boil. As soon as it boils pour out slowly and with 
care the water in which the rice has been soaking since 
the night before. Empty the rice into the boiling water. 
Cover the caldron and increase the heat. As soon as the 
caldron containing the rice begins to boil remove the cover 
and stir the rice gently with a flat spoon. Then replace 

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the lid and let the contents of the caldron boil again. 
Repeat the stirring process three times. Next drain the 
rice in a sieve, shaking it to remove all adherents of salt 
and starch. Now melt a quarter of a pound of butter 
in a large cup of water. Pour half of the melted butter 
into a one-gallon caldron and gently empty the rice into 
the caldron in such a way that it will spread uniformly 
without sticking together in rice balls. Place the caldron 
in a hot oven. Close the oven and after five or six minutes 
see if the caldron is hot; if it is, bring it out gently 
and pour the remainder of the melted butter over the 
rice and replace in the oven. Now reduce the heat until 
the caldron gives a hollow sound when rapped with the 
fingers ; this will indicate that the rice is sufficiently cooked. 

Preparation of the almonds: Boil the almonds for a 
few minutes until the skins fall off and the almonds be- 
come white. Cut the almonds into four quarters perpen- 
dicularly. 

Preparation of the orange peel : Remove the white part 
of the peel to such an extent that both sides of the peel 
are of the same color. When this has been done cut the 
peel into long thin strings. These should be boiled in 
two waters so as to remove all bitterness. Then strain. 

Combining the almonds and the orange peel : Mix the 
almonds and the orange peel and boil them in a syrup 
of sugar for ten minutes. Strain and keep in a warm 
place until needed. 

Cooking the chicken: Begin boiling the chicken very 
slowly at eight o'clock in the morning. Boil to such a 

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point that the skin and bones detach themselves from the 
flesh. 

Preparation of the saffron: Warm the saffron to re- 
move all dampness and pound it to a powder in a mortar ,* 
after which dissolve it in three tablespoonsful of cold 
water. 

Dishing the Polow: One half of the rice should be 
taken from the caldron and mixed in a bowl with the 
orange peel and almonds. Over this sprinkle three table- 
spoonsful of saffron water to color well. Now pour over 
it about two tablespoonsful of melted butter. 

Next remove the remainder of the rice from the caldron 
and dish it up ready for the table. Place the chicken 
from which the skin and bones have been removed on 
top of the rice. Crown the whole with the rice, which 
has already been mixed with the almonds and orange 
peel and colored with the saffron. 

This will make a delightful and pleasantly flavored dish 
— Chirin Polow, which means "sweet Polow." 



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LXV 



TVilliam J. Bryan 

FRENCH-FRIED ONIONS 

Onions are on my permitted list of foods and they are 
prepared for the table in many ways. The best way that 
I know of has been given the name of French-fried 
onions. I first ate onions in this form at the famous 
Grove Park Inn, Asheville, North Carolina, and have 
since introduced the dish on dining cars and into many 
private homes. 

Take a Bermuda onion — any other large onion would 
do — cut it into slices through the rings so that each 
slice will be made up of a large number of whole rings. 
Then break the slices up into separate rings, drop these 
into a thin batter and fry them as you fry French-fried 
potatoes. Each ring looks like a little doughnut. I find 
that the dish is universally praised. 

May I add a word in regard to radishes, of which 
I am very fond. The long White Icicle radish is, in 
my judgment, the best variety and I have found that butter 
added to the salt makes the radish a little more palatable. 



[138] 



WRITTEN FOR MEN BY MEN 



LXVI 



Will Irwin 

HAM AND EGGS 

Take a frying pan and some ham. Cook the ham 
in its own fat in the frying pan — cook until the ham is 
well dappled with golden brown, or until it is cooked 
enough. Then break some eggs. Take out the ham and 
put it on a hot platter, then put in the eggs. Baste them 
a bit with the hot ham fat. Put a cover on the pan and 
let the eggs cook in the hot pan with no fire. A minute or 
two will do — then serve the eggs with the ham and — oh, 
boy! 

For the very best results use the best ham you can get 
and plenty of day old eggs. 



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LXVII 

Douglas Fairbanks 

BREAD TART 

I cup fresh bread crumbs 

1 cup sugar 

i cup chopped nut meats 

lYz teaspoons baking powder 

5 eggs 

2 tablespoons grape juice 
i lemon 

Filling 

i egg 
T/2. cup chopped walnut meats 
Y2. cup sugar 
Yz cup lemon 

Soak bread crumbs with grape juice and the strained 
lemon juice. Beat egg yolks and sugar together until 
light; then add nut meats, baking powder, bread crumbs 
and the beaten whites of the eggs. Divide into buttered 
and floured layer tins and bake in a moderate oven for 
twenty minutes. Put together with filling. Beat up egg, 
add sugar, lemon juice and walnuts. This tart may be 
covered with frosting if liked. 



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WRITTEN FOR MEN BY MEN 



LXVIII 

Julian Street 

SOLE A LA MARGUERY AND DUCK 
WITH ORANGES 

I have two favorite dishes: both being examples of the 
French cuisine at its highest. 

One is "Sole a la Marguery" (which can be made with 
flounder, also) and was originated by old Monsieur 
Marguery at his famous restaurant in Paris. It has a 
sauce which has a wine base and which contains shrimps 
and small oysters. 

Sole a la Marguery 

Lay your sole in a buttered platter, add about a glassful 
of white wine, season and poach : 

I. E. Let boil for about fifteen minutes and then take 
the juice out, mix with it a yolk of a raw egg, about two 
ounces of sweet butter. Beat slowly so as to get it thick, 
something; like a hollandaise; add a few shrimps, oysters, 
mussels, and a few heads of mushrooms, cook the sole with 
it, glaze in a salamande two or three minutes and serve. 

Another is duck cooked with oranges. I know how 
to ask for it at the St. Regis and the Brevoort, but am 
not sure of the spelling. It sounds like Duck "Bigarade." 
They do it well at the Brevoort. If potatoes are served 

[141] 



THE STAG COOK BOOK 

«OTwr i i i ii iiiii m i n iiii HriMHJin iWWfi i iiii i 'HwwiMnyMi 1 1 im ii i imh inm ates— am e— 

with either of these dishes they should be potatoes gau- 
frettes — on a separate plate. 

Duck Bigarade 

To Roast: Select a young and very tender duck, pre- 
pare and truss it for roasting. It should be roasted on 
the spit or in the oven for fifteen to twenty-five minutes, 
according to its size and the heat of the fire. 

A domestic duck ought to be served quite rare, and 
should be killed without bleeding. Dish it after untruss- 
ing and pour over it a little of its gravy. 

Sauce Bigarade : Peel an orange without touching the 
white parts, cut the peel up into small, fine julienne. 
Plunge it into boiling water, and cook until it is tender. 
Drain and enclose it in a covered saucepan with four gills 
of espagnole or brown sauce. Just when ready to serve 
finish the sauce with a dash of cayenne pepper, meat glaze, 
the orange juice and the juice of a lemon, strain through 
a tamis, adding two ounces of fine butter. 



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WRITTEN FOR MEN BY MEN 



LXIX 



8. S. McClure 



OMELETTE— AND PIE 

I can give you a tip on how to prepare, in the very 
best fashion, two articles of food. 

The first is omelette: The frying pan should be held 
at a slant, with the lower part immediately over a mod- 
erate heat, and continually the volume of eggs that be- 
comes cooked should be scraped back and the liquid part 
allowed to flow over the pan thus emptied, and then when 
the omelette is, I should say, about two-thirds cooked, it 
should be removed from the fire and dished. 

It is impossible to make an omelette of the utmost 
symmetry and firmness and have it good at the same time. 
If it is stiff enough to maintain a certain symmetry, then 
it is too stiff to be good. I have made an omelette in 
this fashion containing as many as eighteen eggs. I 
learned how to make omelette from Madame Poulard 
of Mont St. Michel in Normandy, one of the most famous 
omelette makers in Europe. 

I am also particularly successful in making pies. On 
one occasion I made pies for one hundred and eighty-five 
officers on the troop-ship Leviathan. To make pies, one 
must have the best quality of butter and the best quality 
of flour. Use a pound of butter to every two pounds 

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THE STAG COOK BOOK 

of flour. The butter must be rather firm and must be 
mixed with the flour with your hands. Then when you 
have a sort of a mass of dough on the table, make a 
little hollow in the middle, pour in a little cold water, 
mix it to such a consistency that it can be made into a 
roll perhaps as thick as your wrist. It will require about 
two inches to be rolled out thin for the crusts. Dust 
a little flour in the dish that it is to be baked in and 
put into the oven at such a temperature as would require 
one half an hour to bake. There's a considerable secret 
in the choice of fruits. The top crust should have little 
apertures in it so as to permit the steam to escape. It 
is easier to make perfect pies than any other dish. 



[144] 



WRITTEN FOR MEN BY MEN 



LXX 



Basil King 

LOBSTER A LA KING 

Boil medium sized lobsters. Let grow cold and remove 
meat. Put large piece of butter and one and one-half 
tablespoons of flour into double boiler. Stir until creamy. 
Add one pint of milk and cook about five minutes. Add 
lobster cut in small pieces and cook about fifteen minutes. 
Just before serving add three tablespoons cream and one- 
half tumbler sherry or brandy. 

Note: Unless brandy or sherry can be added it is use- 
less to attempt this dish. 



[us] 



THE STAG COOK BOOK 



LXXI 



John A. Moroso 



SPAGHETTI-FOR-THE-GANG 

Many a time as a very small boy I watched my distin- 
guished Piedmontese grandfather grandly direct the cook. 
This is the way our spaghetti sauce was prepared. Buy 
about three or four pounds of solid meat from the round, 
cut thick. Ask for the "eye of the beef." It is inex- 
pensive. Cut little pockets in it and insert bits of fat 
bacon in some. In others stuff sage, thyme, parsley and 
bay leaf with salt and pepper to taste. Sometimes 
I spread thinly with mustard, the prepared sort; covering 
the top. A clove of garlic tucked in with the seasoning 
goes well, if you have Wop ancestry. Pale people use 
onions. But surely one or the other. 

Grease well a deep iron skillet with iron top, the pot- 
roast utensil. When the gravy begins to drip add a little 
water, but not much. The steam makes the meat tender 
and brings out all the flavors in the little pockets. Baste 
from time to time just to get the aroma of the simmering 
mess and sharpen your appetite. Take a little wire and 
jab it in the roast after about an hour and twenty minutes 
and you'll find out whether it is tender and juicy enough. 

Put the big pot on and get your water boiling fast. 
Add a good sized kitchen spoon of salt. Better salt the 

[h6] 



WRITTEN FOR MEN BY MEN 



water to taste. Throw in a pound of Italian made 
spaghetti . . . the Farina spaghetti. It requires a certain 
kind of wheat to make good macaroni. Boil for twenty* 
minutes. Drain off water. 

To the rich gravy you will find the roast swimming 
in add a small can of tomato paste, stirring in slowly. 
As this is poured over the spaghetti add grated Roman 
cheese. You will get it all properly dressed by using two 
forks, lifting and dropping the strands. Serve piping hot 
with an automatic revolver at hand so that the man who 
cuts his can be disposed of promptly. Some twine the 
spaghetti about the fork. Others just lead a mass of it 
to the face and bite off what they want at that particular 
mastication. 

A good salad and Italian bread, to be secured at any 
small dealer's where the boss sings Santa Lucia in a thin 
high voice as he slices the salami, goes well with the roast. 
This layout will last an old bachelor or a deserted husband 
two or three days. It's grand when it's warmed up in a 
boiler. 



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LXXII 

F. X. Leyendecker 

VEAU SAUTE MARENGO 

During my Paris days (school days) I became very 
fond of two dishes and they still remain my favorites: 

No. i — Veau Saute Marengo — nothing epicurean about 
this, but real tasty; a ragout of veal which must be 
served in a brown pot. It is flavored with tiny onions 
and mushrooms, olives and a delicious sauce. I have never 
found it quite so well prepared as in Paris. 



Fry some small pieces of veal in oil, add one chopped 
onion, one head of crushed garlic and when it is well 
brown strain it, add one glass of white wine and reduce. 
Moisten it with one quart of brown sauce. Add two 
pounds fresh tomatoes and some fine herbs. Cook slowly 
for an hour and a half. 

Put the meat in another pan, add few small onions 
cooked in butter, some small mushrooms already cooked. 

Dress and serve on toast fried in butter. 



No. 2 — Vol au Vent Financiere — a pastry form filled 
with mushrooms, cubes of chicken, something else, and a 
good sauce. This also seems not quite the same outside 
of Paris. 

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WRITTEN FOR MEN BY MEN 



VOL AU VENT FINANCIERE 

Put four ounces of butter in a saucepan, add four ounces 
of cooked sweetbread cut in three-sixteenth inch squares, 
small bits of the white of chicken, some truffles, olives, 
mushrooms, kidney and cock's combs. 

Moisten with one pint of Madeira sauce, let boil and 
despumate; when the sauce is done strain it through a 
tamis, fill your pastry crust and serve. 



Editor's Note:— The recipes are French, and properly pre- 
pared and served, they will prove the real thing in Keokuk 
as well as in the Quartier Latin. 

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LXXIII 



Eddie Cantor 



BOILED BEEF AND HORSERADISH SAUCE 

I love boiled beef and horseradish sauce — I love it 
better than any other dish in the world! 

Anybody knows how to boil beef. And a good horse- 
radish sauce is made in this fashion. 

Melt a good sized lump of the best butter — almost as 
big as an egg, is good sized. Add to this, first removing 
from the fire, about two tablespoonsful of flour. Stir the 
flour and butter together until the mixture is absolutely 
smooth, and then add cold milk — a trifle more than a half 
pint, a shade less than a pint. Put over a slow fire in a 
sauce pan or, for safety's sake, a double-boiler. Cook 
slowly until the sauce is of the desired consistency, and 
then add your horseradish. If you like the sauce very 
hot add a lot of horseradish. If you like it moderate, a 
little horseradish. The best way is to begin with a tea- 
spoonful and keep adding and tasting until it's O. K. 
Salt and pepper to taste, of course. And, if you like it, 
a dash of celery salt. 



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WRITTEN FOR MEN BY MEN 



LXXIV 



Frazier Hunt 



STUFFED CELERY 

I like food. I like almost any kind of food. I've 
eaten all varieties — in great cities and in out of the way 
corners of the world. And I've never found anything 
that I couldn't eat, if I were hungry enough! 

But best of all I think that I like stuffed celery. It's 
easy to fix, and it's slightly out of the ordinary, and it's 
possible to consume a lot of it without being looked down 
upon by those who are dining with you. Because every- 
body eats a lot of stuffed celery. 

To a half pound of Roquefort cheese add a quarter of 
a pound of butter. Cream them together until they are 
as smooth as it is possible to make any mixture contain- 
ing Roquefort cheese. Then add a dessertspoonful — or a 
tablespoonful, if you like — of Worcestershire sauce. A 
little salt, and some paprika, enough to slightly color the 
mixture. And then — 

Take stalks of celery — very white and crisp and fresh. 
And stuff the hollow side, until it bulges, with the 
Roquefort mixture. And serve with your dinner, or 
after dinner, or with the salad, or all alone. It doesn't 
matter when or where you place it on the menu, for it's 
apt to be the dominant note! 

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LXXV 

TVilliam Slavins McNutt 

ORANGE COMPOTE 

Orange Compote is my favorite dish. After my fourth 
I begin to forget that I'm a human being. After my 
sixth I can feel myself drifting into a blissfully comatose 
state — with only strength enough left to call for a seventh. 

Orange Compote, at its best, may be obtained in any 
small Turkish or Armenian restaurant where the coffee 
is good and the dishes aren't too offensively clean. When 
made at home it is never quite the same — I don't know 
why. This, however, is the best working substitute that 
I am able to concoct. 

Take as many oranges as your system is capable of 
absorbing, and peel them, removing all of the thin white 
inside skin, and all of the film-like tissue that divides an 
orange into sections. I forgot to mention that the orange 
should be large, luscious, juicy and free of seeds. Place 
the oranges in individual serving dishes and pour over them 
this sauce, while hot: 

For about six oranges you will need one middle-sized 
jar of orange marmalade and one small can of Hawaiian 
pineapple. Put the marmalade, the pineapple — cut into 
small cubes — and the pineapple juice into a double boiler 
and cook, briskly, until the liquid begins to thicken. Then 
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WRITTEN FOR MEN BY MEN 

pour ft over the uncooked oranges and allow them — each 
in its individual dish — to stand in the ice box until 
dessert time. Just before serving, sprinkle with a few 
pine nuts, or salted almonds. Pine nuts are best. 



[153] 



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LXXVI 

Stephen Vincent Benet 

ZITELLFS MACARONI STEW 

Take one-half pound of real Italian macaroni, boil it in. 
plenty of water, slightly salted, till soft, say, about twenty 
minutes; take one quart of tomatoes, one-half pint of 
water and two ounces of fat bacon cut into small pieces. 
Now one onion and a small bunch of parsley; boil all 
these together (apart from the macaroni) for half an 
hour, then pass the mixture through a colander; add one 
tablespoonful of butter and season with salt and pepper 
to taste. 

Put it on the fire again and let it boil for five min- 
utes. Let the macaroni and the sauce both be very hot. 
In a tureen place a layer of the macaroni covered with 
grated cheese; then cover with a ladleful of the sauce 
and repeat the layers until the entire amount is served. It 
should be dished in deep soup plates for individual 
servings. 



[154] 



WRITTEN FOR MEN BY MEN 



LXXVII 

James R. Quirk 

TOMATO WIGGLE 

To one pound of diced American cheese, add one can 
of Campbell's Tomato Soup. Heat over a slow fire until 
a thick, smooth mass has been obtained. And then — 

Add one beaten egg, and follow it quickly with a cup 
of cream or very rich milk. Stir in a dessertspoonful of 
Worcestershire Sauce, and enough salt to give the proper 
kick. 

Serve on soda crackers that have been heated — large 
soda crackers. 

The name? That's just to make it difficult. 



[155] 



THE STAG COOK BOOK 



LXXVIII 



Charles W. Eliot 



A FAVORITE MENU 

I can hardly say that I have a "favorite dish." But 
a favorite menu for luncheon or dinner is clam soup, 
corned beef hash, and baked Indian pudding. 

Note. — If you want to try Dr. Eliot's menu why not 
use Rex Beach's clam specialty? 

Then for the corned beef hash get plenty of fine lean 
corned beef and cut it into one-eighth inch bits. 

Chop one small onion into very fine particles. Take 
cold boiled potatoes (fairly firm) and cut or chop. 

Prepare some drawn butter and add a few drops of 
Worcestershire sauce, salt and pepper. Now mix the meat, 
potatoes, onion and drawn butter. Mold and pat into 
small, flat, elliptical loaves (individual servings) and fry 
in a hot, lightly buttered pan. Turn frequently until 
well browned on both sides. Serve sprinkled with minced 
parsley. 

Top off with this baked Indian pudding: 

You must have I quart of milk, 3 eggs, Yz cup of 
the finest seeded raisins, 1 teaspoonful of salt, 2 heaping 
tablespoonsful of corn meal, 4 heaping tablespoonsful of 
sugar, 1 heaping tablespoonful of butter. 

[156] 



WRITTEN FOR MEN BY MEN 

Boil the milk in a double boiler and sprinkle in the 
corn meal, stirring all the time. Cook twelve minutes. 

Beat the eggs, adding the salt, sugar and a half tea- 
spoonful of ground ginger. Add this mixture with the 
butter to milk and meal, then add the raisins and stir 
until perfectly mixed. Remove from the double boiler 
and bake for one hour. 

You will agree with Dr. Eliot. 



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LXXIX 

H. S. Cumming 

(Surgeon General, U.S.P.H.S.) 

VIRGINIA EGG BREAD 

I am particularly fond of this dish — it is, I think, my 
favorite, and I pass along the recipe with the hope that 
others will find it as satisfying and delicious as do those 
who already list it among their favorites. 

I cup water ground corn meal (white) 

2j4 cups boiling water 

I cup sweet milk 

3 or 4 eggs 

1 teaspoonful salt 

2 tablespoonsful butter 
2 teaspoonsful sugar 



Stir boiling water into the sifted meal ; add sweet milk ; 
when cool break eggs into the mixture and beat thor- 
oughly; add salt, sugar and butter melted. Bake in well 
buttered baking dish in hot oven. 



[158] 



WRITTEN FOR MEN BY MEN 



LXXX 

Joseph Santley 

COCOA CREAM CAKE 

I will admit that it sounds a good deal like "pink 
sponge cake" to announce a preference for anything so 
epicureanly flippant as cocoa cream cake. But it is the 
one dish that I prefer above any other, and in justice to 
truth and accuracy, I repeat — my favorite is cocoa cream 
cake! And my own dear mother will have to stand the 
responsibility for whatever shame comes to me by openly 
declaring it. You see, she makes it. And it was from 
her I learned the secret of its concoction. 

Here is the recipe: 

Four eggs, one cup of sugar, one cup of cocoa, a tea- 
spoonful of vanilla, and a teaspoonful of baking powder. 
Cream yolks of eggs and sugar well; add the vanilla. 
Sift the cocoa and baking powder well, and add to the 
eggs and sugar. Last of all stir in the whites of the eggs, 
beaten. Bake in two layers, for about ten minutes. 
When cold whip a pint of thick cream with a teaspoonful 
of vanilla and sugar to taste — placing half between the 
layers and half on top. 

Oh, boy! 



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LXXXI 

A. Hamilton Gibbs 

SQUAB EN CASSEROLE 

In a casserole put generous layer of sliced onion saute, 
two sliced tomatoes saute, two cups of mushrooms, two 
cups of potato balls, and a little fresh parsley also saute. 
(All the vegetables should be fried in butter). On top 
place, breast up, a squab or a one-pound chicken — one for 
each person. On each breast place a slice of crisp fried 
bacon. Over all pour some rich well-seasoned brown 
sauce, filling the casserole up with the chicken breasts — 
three-quarters full — preferably with a cup of sherry added 
last, if your cellar will still produce it! 

Place the casserole in a hot oven, uncovered. When the 
breasts are brown, cool oven to a moderate heat, cover 
the casserole and cook for two hours. Then remove the 
casserole and serve from dish. 

The result is an epicurean masterpiece. 



[160] 



WRITTEN FOR MEN BY MEN 



LXXXII 



Richard Barthelmess 



SPICED GRAPES 

This dish is always reminiscent, to me, of low New 
England farmhouses, with green blinds. You know the 
kind — set far back from the road, among tall trees, with 
hollyhocks, and rose geraniums and old fashioned pinks 
in the garden. When I see such a house — and I can, 
sometimes, by closing my eyes — I can always smell the 
pungent scent of spiced grapes, cooking away on an im- 
maculate kitchen range. 

This is the rule for making spiced grapes. A rule that 
most New England families seem to follow. 

To seven pounds of grapes there should be added 
these materials — three pounds of granulated sugar, one 
cup of vinegar, two tablespoonsful of ground cinnamon, 
and one tablespoonful of ground cloves. 

Weigh the grapes, wash and pulp them. Cook the pulp 
until the seeds are loosened — then press the mass through 
a sieve. Cook the skins just as long as you cook the 
pulps. Put them on the same stove, but in separate 
kettles. Add the strained pulps to the skins, then vinegar, 
sugar, and spices. And cook until the mixture thickens. 

This, when served with cold meat, changes a common- 
place supper of left-overs into a feast. 

[161] 



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LXXXIII 



Don Juan y Gayangos 

(Ambassador to the United States, from Spain) 

EGG PLANT AU GRATIN 

Peel the egg plant. 

Whiten it in salty water, and dry. 

Fry, in butter, with salt sprinkled on each piece. 

Place in a dish with grated cheese, tomato sauce, and 
mushrooms, which have been cut into small pieces and put 
thickly between the layers of egg plant. 

Bake, until well cooked, in a moderate oven. 



[162] 



WRITTEN FOR MEN BY MEN 



LXXXIV 

Samuel G. Blythe 

TRIPE A LA MODE DE CAEN A LA ROY 
CARRUTHERS 

Only an artist should attempt to make Tripe a la 
Mode de Caen because only an artist can make it. It 
requires the soul of a poet, the spirit of a painter, and 
the exaltation of a violin virtuoso in the maker as a pre- 
requisite for its concoction. Of course, it may be eaten 
by the commonalty, but it is too good for them. It really 
is a dish for the intelligentsia. 

There are not more than a dozen people in the United 
States who have the temperament and the touch required. 
One of these is Roy Carruthers. And herewith, as my 
favorite recipe, I set down the complicated but necessary, 
procedure for producing this work of art: 

Take four pounds of fresh honeycomb tripe and one 
pound of fresh manyplies tripe (the thickest part) and 
wash thoroughly in many changes of fresh water. Drain 
well, and scrape to have all absolutely clean. Take two 
calf's feet and carefully bone each foot and cut into pieces 
two inches square. Have a large earthen pot, scrupulously 
clean, and line sides and bottom of this pot with very 
thin slices of larding pork. Place tripe and cut up feet 
in pot. 

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THE STAG COOK BOOK 

Add two small red carrots, two white onions with two 
cloves stuck in each, and half of a sound, seeded pepper. 
,Make a bouquet of two leeks, two branches of celery, three 
branches of parsley, and a sprig of thyme, marjoram, a 
blade of mace and a bay leaf — only one. Put this bouquet 
in the pot and pour in a half pint of white wine, a pint 
of cider and a quart of consomme or white broth. Season 
with a full teaspoon of salt and half a spoon of black 
pepper. 

Now make a stiff dough with a pound of white flour 
and two gills of water, roll out on a table until you have 
enough to cover the pot, and cover closely, making sure 
there can be no evaporation. 

Place pot in a very slow oven and cook for fifteen hours. 

Then lift up the cover, skim off the fat, and remove 
the bouquet of herbs and the vegetables. 

Chop together six shallots, or scallions if shallots are 
not procurable, the red part of a carrot, a bean of sound 
garlic, two ounces of raw ham and an ounce of raw lean 
pork. Place this hash in a saucepan with a tablespoon 
of melted butter, cook gently on the fire for five minutes, 
stirring lightly, and then pour in half a gill of cognac and 
let it reduce briskly until it is nearly dry. 

Put the contents of the pot on the saucepan, add a gill 
of pure tomato juice, mix lightly with a wooden spoon, 
and cook slowly for forty-five minutes. 

Then dress the tripe on a deep hot dish, sprinkle a little 
freshly chopped parsley over and send to table very hot 
with twelve slices of toasted French bread. 

That is real Tripe a la mode de Caen. All others are 
imitations. 

[i6 4 ] 



WRITTEN FOR MEN BY MEN 



LXXXV 

Charles H. Taylor 

CLAM CHOWDER 

Try out salt pork. Take out the scraps. Cut up onions 
and fry them in the pork fat until they are a golden brown. 
Open clams and save all the clam water. (Most chefs 
steam the clams first because they are so much easier to 
handle, but if you want the real flavor you want to shell 
the clams, wash the meat over carefully and let the clam 
water settle and dip it out instead of pouring it into your 
kettle so as to leave out the sand.) 

Add to the onions enough hot water to cover them, put 
in clam water and the bellies of the clams. Cook until 
the bellies of the clams have practically disappeared (about 
two hours) . Then add whatever more hot water is neces- 
sary, add the rest of your clam meat, after having first 
cut off the black end of the head, and run the meat 
through the coarsest cutting disk of your meat grinder. 
Cook until clams are very nearly done and then add your 
sliced white potato. Cook again until the potatoes are 
done. Then add whatever milk you put in and let it 
come to a boil. Put into the chowder what we call 
Boston cracker. They are shaped like a water cracker 
only they are soft. Split them in halves. These will 
soften up immediately and you can then serve your 
chowder. 

[165] 



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Do not use any flour for thickening. If the chowder 
is prepared and the bellies of the clams cooked as above, 
this will make the broth thicken up. 



[166] 



WRITTEN FOR MEN BY MEN 



LXXXVI 

Cyrus H. K. Curtis 

BAKED BEANS 
(My Favorite Dish) 

To prepare Mr. Curtis' favorite food is no difficult 
task and any number of methods original and otherwise 
may be followed. 

For the best results have a large covered bean pot and 
the rest is easy. 

Select fine white or navy beans. Wash them thoroughly 
and let them soak in clear water for several hours — most 
folks soak them all night. 

Place the beans in the pot with several pieces of salt 
pork (with fat), cover with water slightly salted. Put 
the lid on the pot and bake in a moderate oven until done. 
That's plain baked beans. 

Chili sauce or tomato catsup or chopped tomatoes may 
be added to taste. 

Look at the beans occasionally and add water if they 
seem too dry or in danger of burning. 

Another method which produces wonderful results is 
to omit the pork and tomato preparations and add gener- 
ous lumps of butter and brown sugar — better still, add 
genuine sorghum molasses. When you do it this way 

[167] 



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be extra careful to see that just enough water is added 
in small quantities to prevent burning. 

Always remove from the oven while the beans are 
still whole. If baked too long they will break up. The 
time necessary for baking will vary according to the heat 
of the oven and the length of time the beans were soaked. 



[168] 



WRITTEN FOR MEN BY MEN 



LXXXVII 

Frederick Arnold Kummer 

SPAGHETTI DIABOLIQUE 

Brown one and a half pounds top plate of beef in half 
a cup of boiling olive oil for one hour, turning frequently. 
Mince the shells of four sweet peppers, one bunch of 
celery, one bunch of parsley, three large onions, two sec- 
tions of clove garlic, add a salt-spoonful of ground thyme, 
a teaspoonful of salt, one of black pepper and red pepper 
to taste. Add one quart of tomatoes, pour over the beef, 
cook for an hour, add a pint of water and cook slowly 
for two hours more. 

To make the spaghetti : Measure a quart of flour, break 
in yolks of three eggs, add three half eggshells full of 
ice water, work to the proper consistency, roll and cut into 
thin strips. When dry cook in boiling salted water for 
twenty minutes. 

Place spaghetti in the center of a dish, pour the sauce 
and shredded meat around it, and serve. 



Editor's Note: — From the several "favorite dishes" of 
spaghetti mentioned in this volume it would seem that there 
is a decided male preference for this particular article of diet. 
Mr. Kummer goes the limit and tells how to make the 
spaghetti, itself! 

[169] 



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LXXXVIII 

Albert D. Lasker 

CHICKEN PAPRIKA 

Say a five pound chicken — do it this way and see how 
you like it. 

Slice four small onions. Put one-sixth pound of butter 
into pan, add onions and let cook over fire until soft and 
a light brown in color. Add two teaspoonsful of paprika 
and put in the chicken piece by piece, fitting into kettle; 
add 1%. tablespoonsful of salt, cover tightly and cook 
until soft (two hours or more). Remove the chicken, 
and into the gravy add 1^4 tablespoonsful of canned 
tomatoes; shake in a tablespoonful of flour and stir well; 
add 24 pi nt oi sour cream and stir well over the fire. 
Strain over the chicken; heat again and serve. 



[170] 



WRITTEN FOR MEN BY MEN 



LXXXIX 



Henry van Dyke 



FISH CHOWDER 

I will say that I like to cook (and if I have good 
luck, to eat) a dish for which the following is the recipe: 

First catch your fish with hook and line, — salmon, trout 
or bass, cod, haddock or blue-fish. Then obtain a good 
sized kettle and put into it, first a layer of sliced potatoes, 
then a fine sprinkling of fine sliced onion, then a layer 
of fat pork cut into small cubes, then a layer of fish, 
skinned and sliced, then a layer of crackers or thin pilot 
biscuit. Sprinkle salt and pepper on each layer according 
to taste. Repeat the layers from three to five times 
according to the size of your kettle. Fill the pot mod- 
erately full with water and put it on the fire to cook 
slowly. If the water gets low replenish it. You can 
tell when the dish is done by testing the potatoes or the 
fish with a fork. As a rule it should take about an hour 
to cook. Just before the end put in two or three cupfuls 
of milk. If your taste is slightly vitiated by contact with 
the world you may add a double spoonful of some spicy 
sauce. But for my part I like a chowder best an nature!. 



[171] 



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xc 



Macklyn Arbuckle 

SOUTHERN GUMBO A LA "COUNTY 
CHAIRMAN" 

A year-old fowl. Joint it as you would for frying. 

Soup kettle ready on the back of the stove with cold 
water. 

Then, the frying pan — 

About one-half dozen thin slices of the best bacon. 
Reserve this for the kettle later. 

Bacon fat in the frying pan — fry the chicken very 
brown. As soon as each piece of chicken is brown place 
it in the kettle — then put the kettle over the fire. Let 
it boil. 

Add six small onions or three large ones. Sliced and 
fried in the bacon grease. 

Onions fried golden brown. 

Then to the onions add a can of tomatoes or the equiv- 
alent of sliced tomatoes. 

Keep stirring from the bottom to prevent burning. 

All must cook until it has thickened. 

While cooking add chili peppers cut fine, green peppers 
the same, also okra. 

Add one or two large bay leaves and season to taste 
with salt and pepper. 
[172] 



WRITTEN FOR MEN BY MEN 

Onions, tomatoes and peppers should be added to the 
chicken in the kettle when they have cooked sufficiently. 

If fresh okra is not available use the best canned kind. 

About ten minutes before the Gumbo is ready add — 

One can of Golden Bantam Corn. 

To serve with the Gumbo have a dish of perfectly 
cooked rice. You may use the same general formula for 
Crab or Oyster Gumbo. A Combination Salad is about 
the only thing worth serving with Gumbo. Although 
you might wash it down with a bottle of PRE-WAR IM- 
PORTED CLARET— HELP!!!! 



[173] 



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xci 



John Taintor Foote 



MORELS SAUTE 

There is a dish — a gastronomical ecstasy — the faintest 
conception of which is magnificently beyond the pen. The 
fork is the one utensil that can convey to the uninitiated 
the unique, the utterly sublime flavor of Morels saute. 

A Morel is — in the vernacular of the countryside — a 
sponge mushroom. It is to be found in ancient, unplowed 
orchards during the pastel phase of spring when apple 
trees blossom and bees zoom and bumble and hum in a 
languid shower of pink and white petals. 

Close to a girthy apple tree, scabrous with age, pock- 
marked by the bills of countless woodpeckers, the Morels, 
now and then — alas, it is only now and then — poke up 
through the cold, damp, chocolate-colored earth and flour- 
ish shyly for a fortnight or so. 

A full day's tramping through orchard after orchard 
may win perhaps two dozen of these tiny sponges that 
have absorbed the very essence of spring. They are al- 
most the exact color of the matted, winter-killed grass in 
which they nestle to defy all but the most careful search- 
ing. A full day's work for each two dozen, but never 
was a day's wage more ample, more exquisitely satis- 
fying. 

[174] 



WRITTEN FOR MEN BY MEN 

Take the hard-won double dozen home. Give them in 
reverent silence to the cook. She knows — if, by the grace 
of God, she was with you so long ago as the previous 
spring — just what to do. She will plop the Morels into 
well salted water, there to remain the night through. In 
the morning she will place them in a colander to drain 
for half an hour. She will then transfer them to a fry- 
ing pan of hot butter, where they will sputter and sizzle 
for twenty minutes. During that twenty minutes there 
will waft into the living room, where you are making 
a pitiful pretense of reading the morning paper, an odor 
straight from the kitchens of heaven. 

You throw down the newspaper and burst with glar- 
ing eyes into the dining room. You seat yourself at the 
table and fiddle wildly with knife and fork and spoon. 
. . . Years later the waitress appears with a dish and then 
— I faint — I swoon — I cannot go on ! 



[175] 



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xcn 



Maurice Francis Egan 

A DIPLOMATIST'S RECEIPT FOR WELSH 
RABBIT 

I have no hesitation in saying that my recipe for Welsh 
Rabbit is the best yet invented. It has an international 
reputation. It has been eaten with gusto by Russians, 
Turks and some Englishmen who, strange to say, are 
distinguished gourmets. There have been Frenchmen who 
were too reserved, perhaps, in their praise of it, but then 
it must be remembered that Welsh rabbit is not sym- 
pathetic with the Gallic temperament. The French pre- 
fer timbales de frontage. 

Put a large chafing dish over the hot water pan in 
which the water must be boiling. Never let the tempera- 
ture of the heat change for a moment; therefore a big 
alcohol lamp is preferable. Grate ordinary cheese or cut 
it into the shape of dice. Drop in a lump of butter of 
the size of an English walnut. Pour into the pan a pint 
of near beer or near Budweiser. Slightly heat it. In the 
old days musty ale was everything. To-day the symbol 
of beer is almost sufficient. Drop in a half teaspoonful 
of strong red pepper and then a tablespoonful of paprika, — 
paprika being merely a flavor and not a condiment. Keep 
the beer hot ; then drop two tablespoons of Worcestershire 

[176] 



WRITTEN FOR MEN BY MEN 

sauce, a tablespoon of catsup and a half teaspoon of mus- 
tard. When this mixture boils, put in the cheese and 
stir in one direction until the mixture assumes the con- 
sistency of cream. 

Use the thick plates sold in the department stores espe- 
cially for Welsh Rabbit. Have them heated so that the 
cheese will sizzle when it touches them. Have ready a 
sufficient number of pieces of toasted bread, the crust 
carefully cut off. When the cheese is sufficiently plastic, 
dip a round of toast into it, let it remain for a second, 
transfer it to the hot plate and at once ladle the mixture 
in the pan over the toast with neatness and dispatch and 
you will have an unprecedented success, if no conversation 
is permitted until the rabbit is eaten. The sound of a 
human voice lowers its temperature. Coffee or tea must 
never be partaken of until the morsels are disposed of. 
During the eating process, Budweiser is a substitute for 
the real thing — which was musty ale or the Dog's Head 
variety. 



[i77l 



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XCIII 



Livingston Farrand 

SAUSAGE AND GRIDDLE CAKES 

I think I would say that my favorite dish is sausage 
and griddle cakes for breakfast on a cold winter morning. 
I would call attention to the fact that the sausages should 
be in cake form and not in skins and that the griddle cakes 
should be of wheat flour. I am sure there are millions 
of Americans who. agree with me. 



Editor's Note: — Here is the best of a dozen tried recipes 
for the cakes. 

To one cup of Hecker's, or any excellent self-raising flour 
(not pancake!) add a full half cup of milk and a beaten egg 
mixed together. A little cream will help at this point, but it 
isn't absolutely necessary. 

Melt, now, a lump of butter the size of a good big walnut 
and stir it into the mixtuie. Beat for a moment and if the 
consistency does not seem just right add a shade more of 
milk or flour. The mixture or batter should be about as 
thick as molasses in the winter time. 

For the very perfection in results bake the cakes on a 
soapstone griddle and serve with the best maple syrup ob- 
tainable. 

This recipe can be safely doubled any number of times and 
then some! As above it serves two unless more are desired, 
in which case it is easy to duplicate in no time. 

[178] 



WRITTEN FOR MEN BY MEN 



xciv 



F. Ziegfeld, Jr. 



LITTLE CHICKEN TARTS 

Here is a dish that I am very fond of and it is really 
very easy to prepare. The tart molds may be purchased 
already made, which simplifies things somewhat if you 
do not want to bother with the dough, but in case you 
cannot get them here is the whole process and I can vouch 
for the results. 

2 cups of chopped chicken (cooked) or one large can 
Chicken a la King 

Y2 cup evaporated milk 

2 eggs 

1 onion 

2 cups sifted flour 
Yi cup shortening 
5^ cup water 

I teaspoonful salt 
Pepper 
Parsley 
Ice water 

Mix salt and flour — cut in the chilled shortening with 
two knives until the mixture is as fine as meal. With a 
broad-bladed knife stir in ice water slowly until dough 
clings around knife in a ball, leaving sides of bowl per- 

[i79] 



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fectly clean. Toss dough on floured bread board. Flour 
the rolling pin and roll it out very thin. Keep the pin 
well floured. Rub the outside of patty pans or jelly molds 
with a little shortening and lay dough over these smoothly, 
bringing it well over the edge. Bake upside down for 
about ten minutes in a hot oven. If Chicken a la King 
is used for a filling it will not require any special prepara- 
tion, but if you really want to cook, and you use the cold 
chicken, proceed as follows: 

Cut the chicken in small pieces, but do not mince. 
Mince onion and cook until slightly brown in a little but- 
ter. Stir in a tablespoonful of flour, add milk and water. 
When smooth add chicken and season to taste. When 
bubbling take from the fire and stir in the slightly beaten 
eggs. Let cool, then fill the pastry shells. The remainder 
of the pastry dough should have been kept in the ice 
box. Get it out. Roll it thin as before. Cut in round 
pieces to cover the tops of the tarts. Wet the edges 
of the tarts with cold water ; press on the covers, bringing 
the edges well down as they shrink a bit in baking. Slit 
the tops before putting on. Press the edges with tines 
of fork. Garnish with parsley. 



[180] 



WRITTEN FOR MEN BY MEN 



xcv 



Harold Lloyd 



LEMON LAYER CAKE 

This, when properly gummy, is as good for a comedian 
to throw as a custard pie. Only it's too good for that 
sort of treatment — which sounds rather like an Irish bull! 

The layer cake doesn't interest me especially. After 
all, it's only an excuse for the frosting. Any sort of layer 
cake recipe will answer — and, according to the best cook 
I know, my grandmother — there are a hundred such 
recipes. It's the filling that I find important. Here is 
the rule, and it sounds too simple to be true! 

Take one beaten egg, one cup of sugar, the juice and 
grated rind of one lemon. Mix them all together, hit 
or miss, and place them in a double boiler over a hot fire. 
Cook until the mixture begins to get very thick, stirring 
constantly. Then take from the stove and beat until the 
whole assumes a creamy texture. Spread between the 
layers of any cake. This recipe makes enough filling for 
two thin layers, or one thick one — which I prefer. It can 
be doubled, tripled, and so on — ad infinitum — depending 
entirely upon the number of layers in the cake. 

Editor's Note: — This is a good, and unusual, recipe for 
layer cake. To two eggs, well beaten, add gradually one cup 
of granulated sugar. To one cup of unsifted flour add one 

[181] 



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teaspoonful cream of tartar and one half teaspoonful of soda. 
Sift Then add one half cup of boiling milk with one tea- 
spoonful of melted butter in it and one teaspoonful of vanilla. 
The mixture will be almost like batter, and should be baked 
in two layers. 



[182] 



WRITTEN FOR MEN BY MEN 



XCVI 



Luther Burbank 



r 



TURKEY A LA BURBANK 
"The best ever.'* * 

For an ordinary ten-pound turkey steam 2% hours or 
until the muscles of the leg can be readily pierced with a 
dining fork. Take steamer from the fire and carefully 
remove the turkey to the roasting pan. 

Meantime, prepare the dressing as follows: One loaf 
of bread, ordinary baker's size, or same amount of other 
bread, slice and toast slowly but thoroughly to a light 
golden color; while hot, spread butter on each slice just 
as a hungry boy would like it. Place in a deep dish. 
The cooked giblets, which, with the juice of one lemon 
and three whole large onions, should be ground all together 
in a meat grinder with 

1 teaspoon salt 

Yz cayenne pepper 

i powdered sage 

2 summer savory 
2 tablespoons sugar 

These should be well sifted and then added to the 

* Mr. Burbank says so himself. If he said he could make 
turkey look and taste like brook trout, he probably could. 

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ground vegetables and giblets, and with the meat juice 
saved from steaming, thoroughly mixed with the bread and 
all cut and mashed to about the consistency of thick mush. 
After filling, the turkey should be placed in an oven 
not too hot, and slowly roasted an hour or more. 

Prepared as above, little or no basting will be necessary, 
but a few thin slices of bacon laid over the fowl will add 
flavor. Add no oysters, eggs, chestnuts or other abomina- 
tions. 



[i8 4 ] 



WRITTEN FOR MEN BY MEN 



XCVII 

Raymond McKee 

TO COOK RABBITS 

I do not profess to be a cook of the first rank, or even 
the fourth or ninth ; but when it comes to cooking rabbits 
I'll put on the kitchen apron with any cook, amateur or 
professional, in the country — (managers, please note!). 
And I'll abide by the decision of any judge of rabbit 
flesh. 

Out in California, where I live most of the time on 
my mountain yacht, you can get a lot of rabbits by shoot- 
ing them — if you are good. But it's easier to buy them, 
and they taste the same. 

To cook a rabbit right do it this way: First — get the 
rabbit, clean and cut into six pieces. Soak the pieces in 
salt water for several hours — I usually soak 'em all night 
and right up to the time for cooking. This whitens and 
improves the meat. 

When you are ready to cook, dry the pieces; roll them 
in a beaten egg and then in cracker crumbs. Put the 
pieces into a very hot pan with plenty of butter and fry it 
to a golden brown. When the color is right put water 
into the pan so that the rabbit is about half covered. 
Cover the pan with a tight lid and steam slowly until 
the water is all gone. Then serve. 

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Now, if you can substitute an ordinary claret for the 
salt water mentioned first, and if you have more claret in 
which to steam the fried rabbit you may know the per- 
fect dish! 



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WRITTEN FOR MEN BY MEN 



XCVIII 



Will Deming 

I can vouch for all of these: 



VIRGINIA HAM 

Cover an eight-pound ham with cold water. Add a 
pint of cider vinegar ; one-half pound of brown sugar ; six 
sticks of cinnamon and a heaping tablespoonful of cloves. 
Let this boil for four hours. Push back on the stove and 
let it stay all night. In the morning skin it and put it in 
a hot oven for half an hour. 



LEMON PIE 

The filling: In a cup full of sugar mix thoroughly a 
heaping tablespoonful and one-half of flour. Grate the 
skin of one lemon, and add the juice. Then add the yolks 
of two eggs and a cup of water, also a pinch of salt. Stir 
this thoroughly, all together. Put into a double boiler 
and let it cook until it is thick and smooth. Then pour 
it into the cooked pie crust. Add a teaspoonful of water 
to the whites of the eggs, and a pinch of salt. Then beat 
until stiff. Cover your pie with this mixture and then 
sprinkle granulated sugar on top of the meringue. Don't 

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mix the sugar and the meringue. Put under the broiler 
to brown. 

The crust: Mix two good sized tablespoonfuls of lard 
with one and a half cups of flour. Mix this with your 
fingers thoroughly, until it feels like corn meal, although 
much larger. Add ice water until the mixture holds to- 
gether; then roll on a floured board. In baking the 
crust for a lemon pie, either puncture the crust all over 
with a fork or bake it on the outside of your pie tin. 
This will keep the crust from creeping. 

A DRESSING 

(For stuffed tomatoes, cold meat or potato salad.) 

Melt a large tablespoonful of butter. Add a saucer 
of vinegar to the yolks of two eggs. Then add a tea- 
spoonful of dry mustard and a teaspoonful of sugar. Stir 
the mixture — sugar and eggs — into the vinegar; then add 
it to the butter which you have on the stove, melting. 
Keep stirring this until it gets thick, and remember that 
it will be much thicker when it is cold. In case you wish 
to use this for potato salad, don't make it very thick. 



[188] 



WRITTEN FOR MEN BY MEN 



xcix 

Charles W^. Chessar 

("Beefsteak Charlie") 

TIPS ON STEAK 

"Why can't we have steaks like this one when we dine 
at home?" Thousands of people have asked me that 
question during the eight years that have given a real 
significance to the sobriquet, "Beefsteak Charlie." 

And my honest answer to that question has always 
been: "You cant — unless your butcher is willing to hang 
your beef for four or five weeks — and then you probably 
would not want to buy it because of its appearance." 

Many people ask me how to cook a steak. There is 
really no secret about the way it should be done — but 
most home cooks put the steak into a cold broiler and 
light the fire. That is fatal! And it is just as fatal if 
the fire has only been burning a few minutes. The 
broiler should burn full tilt for some time — until it is 
blazing hot. Then introduce your steak and let the in- 
tense heat of the broiler seal it instantly. If there is a 
secret, that's it ! 

But keep this in mind: the most careful broiling will 
not help if the beef is too fresh. Fresh beef simply will 
not do if you want the real thing. Buy the choicest cuts 
of sirloin or porterhouse from beef that has been hung at 

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least four weeks; broil in the way I have described and 
your dinner guests will register many polite hints for an- 
other invitation. I might add that if the beef is right 
you will not have to worry about a sauce. Butter, salt, 
and pepper will properly dress the finest steak in the 
world. 



[190] 



WRITTEN FOR MEN BY MEN 



Arthur T. Vance 

SALADE A LA TURC 

I don't profess to shine much as a cook. I would 
rather have somebody do it for me, but there are one or 
two things that I sometimes like to fix on my own hook. 

Years ago there was some sort of a Centennial Exposi- 
tion out in Nashville, Tenn. I don't remember what 
they had to celebrate, but at any rate I had to take it in. 
I didn't know a soul and good old Al Williams, the snake 
man — who died last year — gave me a letter of introduc- 
tion to the Turk who ran the Hoochy-Koochy show on 
the midway. It is the only time I ever used a letter of 
introduction with efficiency and delectation. This Turk 
— who, incidentally, was one of the finest looking chaps I 
ever saw, and a man of education — welcomed me with 
open arms. First of all I had to see the show, and I 
was so enthusiastic about the gyrations of the sumptuous 
beauties that he did me the great honor of asking me to 
dine with him, en famille. It was a great experience. 
All the Hoochy-koochy dancers were there, in their stage 
costumes, with ma and pa and mother-in-law, and 
mother's great uncle and a rabble of other folks, large and 
small. We had a lot of funny things to eat, but there 
was one dish that really appealed to me. They called 

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it "Salada" and I ate of it in such copious portions that 
my friend, the Turk, insisted on showing me how it was 
made. I have made it many times since for my own 
pleasure, at least — and most folk who try it once will try 
it again. 

It is a salad of ripe tomatoes, cucumbers and onions. 
The main point is that you must not slice them up but 
— after you peel your onions, cucumbers and tomatoes — 
put them whole into a chopping bowl, and chop them into 
chunks with a chopping knife. The chunks should be 
about as large as the end of your thumb. After the 
chopping operation, put the whole business on the ice 
until it gets good and cold. Then drain off the juice. 

Add a sharp French dressing, get a big spoon and a 
plate and go to it. If it doesn't taste good, I'll eat it 
myself. 

PANDORA FRENCH DRESSING 

I have discovered that the secret of French dressing, to 
my way of thinking, is to use plenty of salt. When I 
make it at home — say for five or six people — I take an 
ordinary salt dish or saucer and cover the bottom with a 
lot of salt. Add black pepper and some of that Chili 
powder that comes from a place down in Texas. This 
Chili powder has a better flavor than paprika, and has a 
sort of onion taste to it, but don't use too much of it. 
Then I cover this with a good quantity of olive oil and 
beat it up with a fork until it gets stiff. It is a good 
idea to have the olive oil cold. Then add your vinegar 
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WRITTEN FOR MEN BY MEN 

— good, old-fashioned cider vinegar. There is a lot of 
it around nowadays because, while it is easy to turn sweet 
cider into hard, it is a good deal easier to turn hard cider 
into vinegar. You add the vinegar to suit your taste — 
and this depends a good deal on the kind of salad you are 
going to have. For asparagus I like the dressing a little 
tart. For lettuce, not so tart. But this is a matter you 
can easily adjust to your own satisfaction. 

WELSH RABBIT A LA MORGAN ROBERTSON 

I wonder how many folk who read these pages re- 
member Morgan Robertson. Poor old Morgan is dead 
and gone, now, but in his day he wrote some of the best 
sea stories ever put into English. He used to keep bach- 
elor hall in a funny little studio down on 25th Street, 
off Sixth Avenue, New York — and when his friends 
came to call his special delight was a Welsh Rabbit. He 
told me how to make it, and I am trying to pass the 
recipe on. The beauty of Robertson's rabbit was that it 
never got stringy. 

First you put a good-sized lump of butter into a chafing 
dish and let it sizzle. Add some Coleman's mustard and 
paprika and stir it round a bit. For six people I would 
use two pounds of cheese. Real old New York State 
full cream cheese — none of this odoriferous imported stuff. 
The kind of cheese they used to make down on the farm. 
Cut it up in chunks and put it in the pan with a little 
beer (near beer will do), or you could use milk. Keep 
adding a little more beer as the cheese commences to melt 

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and put in a little Worcestershire sauce, if you like it. 
When it is well melted take a heaping tablespoonful of 
corn starch, mix it with a little water, and mix it with 
the mess. Meanwhile keep stirring it. Let it bubble 
and when it comes to the consistency of pancake batter 
(meanwhile keep stirring it — you can't stir it too much!) 
it is ready to serve. And please serve it on toasted bread. 
If there is anything makes me tired, it is to have Welsh 
Rabbit served on crackers — it isn't the same thing. Don't 
be afraid the rabbit will get stringy, because it won't. 
Some folks put the corn starch in dry, instead of mixing 
it with water. Either way is right. Season it to suit 
yourself. But for the love of Mike don't beat an egg 
up in it. That's another kind of fish entirely. 



[194] 



WRITTEN FOR MEN BY MEN 



ci 



Baron de C artier 

(Ambassador to the United States from Belgium) 

WATERZOIE DE VOLAILLE 

Without doubt the most popular national dish of Bel- 
gium is Waterzoie de Volaille — a most delectable and 
satisfying soup of chicken. In Brussels the dish reaches 
perfection under the magic of the chef of the famous res- 
taurant the "Filet de Sole," known to amateurs of good 
cooking in almost every country of Europe. 

I am going to tell you how they do it at the "Filet de 
Sole." First of course you will secure a fine young fowl 
— chicken — and, after it has been perfectly cleaned and 
dressed, you will rub it well with a piece of lemon. Now 
cut it up as you would for frying. 

Next prepare the casserole or vessel in which the 
soup will be made by generously buttering the sides and 
bottom. Over the bottom of the vessel place a bed of fine 
julienne composed of one third of fine white celery (re- 
move all fibers or "strings") one-third of the white part 
of leek and one-third of white onion. To this add a 
bouquet composed of a half leaf of laurel, a soupgon of 
thyme enclosed in a few roots of parsley, the roots hav- 
ing been well scraped and washed. 

Upon this bed place the pieces of chicken and over the 

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whole pour a little more than a quart of dry white wine 
and veal broth — one third broth and two thirds wine. 
Water may be used instead of the broth but the latter 
is preferable. Season with kitchen salt, freshly ground 
white pepper and a pinch of clove. 

Bring the mixture to the boiling point and allow it to 
simmer and steam under a tight cover for at least thirty- 
five minutes. 

Take out the bouquet and pass the roots through a 
metal strainer. The extract is to be added to the soup. 
Now add a large pinch of bread crumbs. 

At this point you will turn the soup into a large tureen 
and quickly add the rapidly beaten yolks of four eggs, 
two wine glasses of extra thick cream and a few thimble- 
fuls of fine butter. 

Complete the liaison by adding the pieces of chicken 
and, with a final sprinkle of chopped parsley, the Water- 
zoie is ready for the table and for your delectation. 



[196] 



WRITTEN FOR MEN BY MEN 



en 



Dean Corn well 

SPAGHETTI-MY-STYLE 

After thinking over all of the dishes that I like — 
searching for the favorite — I come right back to the old 
standby, Spaghetti, and am forced to admit that it is my 
favorite. 

You know how to cook the spaghetti itself, I'm sure, so 
I will just tell you how to make the sauce that I con- 
cocted some years ago and you'll like it. 

Get a big iron kettle and put into it a lot of fine beef 
cut into small squares, some chopped bacon, dried mush- 
rooms (the kind you get at any little Italian store) a 
can of tomatoes and some sliced onions. The dried 
mushrooms should be soaked for an hour or two before 
cooking. 

Cover the materials with plenty of water and season 
with salt, brown sugar, and Mexican chili powder. Cook 
slowly all day — the longer the better, I find. 

When you are simply famished and cannot wait any 
longer, ladle the sauce onto the steaming hot spaghetti 
and enjoy a real meal. The sauce is still better, in my 
opinion, when warmed up the second day. 



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